Celine S/S 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's

Scene setting: A graphic pyramidal installation was erected at the head of the catwalk inside Les Invalides, like a futuristic totemic ruin. As the show began, the structure became illuminated with tiny lights, with block sections glowing in a warm haze of red and yellow. As the lights flashed and sparkled, the first model of the show appeared still inside the structure, clad in bootcut jeans, a denim shirt, pinstripe double-breasted jacket and aviators, before taking to the runway.

Mood board: There was a softer 1970s bohemian silhouette to the Left Bank bourgeois woman that Slimane pioneered last season. Her wardrobe staples were seen here in more stripped back silhouettes, like the shows opening look, and pussy bow dresses, fluid calf skimming skirts and gold buttoned blazers. That soft insouciance came into play with suede jackets, patchwork denim skirts, fur coats and lurex headscarves. The decade has been a touchpoint for designers in Paris – Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena hark edback to the psychedelic era of the 1960s and 70s with a trippy, flower-power infused offering. There was something escapist in Slimane’s offering, a shimmering, relaxed and hair tousled offering for spring.

Team work: You can always count on Slimane for a stellar show soundtrack. For spring, he teamed up with post-punk, LA-based trio Automatic whose music experiments with synths, on Calling It, mixed by Joo-Joo Ashworth. §

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