Team work: It's always a chic, sustainability-minded affair at Gabriela Hearst. Since launching her label in 2015, the designer has made efforts to produce shows with as little environmental wastage as possible. At her A/W 2017 show, guests sat on cashmere pillows knitting made using recycled yarn by the collective Manos del Uruguay, in Hearst's home country. Hearst went one further for S/S 2020 by staging an entirely carbon neutral fashion show - an industry first. Working with EcoAct and show producers Bureau Betak, Hearst ensured that every necessary aspect of the event's production, design and installation was assessed to minimise its carbon footprint. The price of offsetting the amount will be donated to the Hifadhi-Livelihoods Project in the Embu and Thraka Nithi counties in Kenya, providing cookstoves to the communities where energy is limited.
Mood board: Exploring the theme of courage, on the daily and extraordinary scales, Hearst looked to past, present and mythical figures, like Josephine Baker, the Greek goddess Athena and the female Kurdish militia fighters, who have displayed acts of bravery. Translated into ivory silk trenchcoats, military shirtdresses, belts and sandals embellished with geodes and nappa leather boxer pants, there was a underlying current of electricity rippling through the elegant collection.
Best in show: Fittingly, this was also the most artisanally driven collection for Hearst to date. Entirely handcrafted, the collection's abundance of hand knotted details, pin tuck stitching, hand fringed leather trims, geodes hand crocheted onto necklines and macrame brought with it a heartfelt connection. Particularly eye catching was a fringed skirt and dress made from tubes of printed silk twill fabrics, repurposed from season's past.
Gabriela Hearst S/S 2020.
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Last chance to see: Sharjah Biennial 15, ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’Built on the vision of late curator Okwui Enwezor, the Sharjah Biennial 15: ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’ offers a critical reframing of postcolonial narratives through major new commissions
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For London Gallery Weekend 2023, the mood is hardcore
With London Gallery Weekend 2023 almost upon us (2 – 4 June), here’s our list of must-see art exhibitions
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Birkenstock celebrates its most memorable styles with colourful capsule (and matching socks)
Birkenstock marks the 40th, 50th and 60th anniversaries of the Gizeh, Arizona and Madrid sandals, respectively, with limited-edition versions
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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New York Fashion Week A/W 2021: drive thrus and digital distortion
New York Fashion Week's digital-first offering presented solutions to life post-pandemic and political crisis, from brands including Tom Ford, Proenza Schouler, Khaite and Collina Strada
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
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Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
