Mood board: ‘A skirt and a sweater, that was my favourite look’ Miuccia Prada said backstage after her S/S 2020 show. For its opener, model Freja Beha Erichsen walked onto a glossy tile-lined catwalk wearing a light grey ribbed knit polo shirt, a calf skimming white silk gauze skirt and chunky heeled loafers with gold buckles. ‘I wanted to do something simple she added’. Simplicity of course comes in Miuccia’s distinct aesthetic make-up and the collection harked back to the more recognisable and well-loved codes of the brand, like retro intarsia knits, icky tones, subversive bourgeois shapes and swirling touches of the baroque.
Scene setting: The Deposito show space at the the Fondazione Prada was swathed floor to ceiling in a mosaic of Liquorice allsort -hued ceramic tiles, and tessellated in graphic patterns of lilac, yellow, turquoise and chestnut. There was something of the mid-century Milanese bathroom behind the show venue set up, which was designed with regular collaborators AMO. Gold columns and pillars infused the space with a warming light.
Finishing touches: In recent seasons a host of sustainability-minded jewellery designers have used discarded shells in their designs. For S/S 20202, Miuccia Prada subverted the traditional style of the bourgeois pearl necklace, swapping its smooth faceted beads for chunky oversized shells. The pieces had an individualistic, DIY sense of drama, which allowed the designer to muse on the role of clothing consumption today. ‘In this moment these is excess and too much, and everyone is complaining there is too much fashion,’ she said. ‘The person is more important than the fashion.’ §
