Max Mara S/S 2019 Milan Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: There’s mythology behind Italian label Max Mara. In the fashion canon, the status of its 101801 wool and cashmere coat is comparable to an epic poem. For S/S 2019, the brand’s creative director Ian Griffiths was preoccupied with classical mythological narratives, namely the tale of Amphitrite, the goddess of the sea, who after being forced to marry Poseidon, was relegated to consort by the 12 ruling Greek Gods. Like classical prose, Griffiths came well versed in underwater references, and Max Mara’s timeless shapes abounded with aquatic allure. There were trench coats and court shoes with tendril like ruffles, slippery asymmetric tops, and pencil skirts and glossy raincoats in shades of algae and seaweed green.

Finishing touches: Griffiths was considering unreliable narratives, and the dominance of male perspectives within classical literature. He namechecked Margaret Atwood’s The Penelopiad, which sees Homer’s Odyssey rewritten from the perspective of his wife Penelope, who waits two decades for the return of her husband. Longstanding creative director Griffiths is also faithful to the working wardrobe of the Max Mara brand. With the exception of some eye-catching sou’wester yellow ensembles, the collection’s predominant colour palette of beige, brown, grey and black will stand the test of time.

Best in show: An oversized Prince of Wales check suit, a chestnut overcoat and a black trench coat with a ruffle at the hem… all the things of wardrobe legend.