Olivier Theyskens S/S 2018

Mood board: Word around Paris is that the show spot immediately before Saint Laurent is cursed. Last season, guests failed to make it on time due to the long distance between Jaquemus and the French house. This time, they weren’t going risk it. And so the victim of the cursed spot was Olivier Theyskens, which was a pity. Still, longtime fans and clients (Irina Lazareanu among them, carefully pointing out to her stylist every one of the show looks she would later want) were faithfully present. It was a good thing: they didn't miss a collection that was defined by a sharp sense of balance between the dramatic and the chic, with a hint of rock ‘n’ roll.

Best in show: Theyskens is well aware of what he does best, and never hesitates to showcase it prominently. As usual, perfectly tailored graphic skirts, delicate lace bodices (in this instance tied in the back with a barely-there clasp, which gave it an even more ethereal feeling) and sharp trousers were in show. But – as Lazareanu rightly commented after the show – it was the long bias-cut dresses which really got the show going, particularly a powder pink halter one, and a white chiffon gown with a long Isadora Duncan-like scarf ornate withe feathers tied in the back. They felt incredibly elegant, but they also filled us with the nostalgia of the once theatrical Theyskens.

Finishing touches: What is the perfect accessory for a voluminous black taffeta skirt with a train? Biker boots, obviously. The fact that Theyskens refuses to let go of his goth roots is one of the things that makes him most endearing. More than that, the boots – present in almost every look – were undeniably covetable, and almost made the thought of ever wearing a skirt or an evening gown with high heels insufferably ‘madame’.