Olivier Theyskens S/S 2018
Mood board: Word around Paris is that the show spot immediately before Saint Laurent is cursed. Last season, guests failed to make it on time due to the long distance between Jaquemus and the French house. This time, they weren’t going risk it. And so the victim of the cursed spot was Olivier Theyskens, which was a pity. Still, longtime fans and clients (Irina Lazareanu among them, carefully pointing out to her stylist every one of the show looks she would later want) were faithfully present. It was a good thing: they didn't miss a collection that was defined by a sharp sense of balance between the dramatic and the chic, with a hint of rock ‘n’ roll.
Best in show: Theyskens is well aware of what he does best, and never hesitates to showcase it prominently. As usual, perfectly tailored graphic skirts, delicate lace bodices (in this instance tied in the back with a barely-there clasp, which gave it an even more ethereal feeling) and sharp trousers were in show. But – as Lazareanu rightly commented after the show – it was the long bias-cut dresses which really got the show going, particularly a powder pink halter one, and a white chiffon gown with a long Isadora Duncan-like scarf ornate withe feathers tied in the back. They felt incredibly elegant, but they also filled us with the nostalgia of the once theatrical Theyskens.
Finishing touches: What is the perfect accessory for a voluminous black taffeta skirt with a train? Biker boots, obviously. The fact that Theyskens refuses to let go of his goth roots is one of the things that makes him most endearing. More than that, the boots – present in almost every look – were undeniably covetable, and almost made the thought of ever wearing a skirt or an evening gown with high heels insufferably ‘madame’.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Three new coffee makers for a contemporary brew, from a casual cup to a full-on branded espresso
Three new coffee makers, from AeroPress, Jura and Porsche x La Marzocco, range from the defiantly manual to the bells and whistles of a traditional countertop espresso machine
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Don't miss Luxembourg's retro-futuristic lab pavilion in Venice
As the Venice Biennale enters its last few weeks, catch 'A Comparative Dialogue Act' at the Luxembourg Pavilion
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
A Berlin park atop an office building offers a new model of urban landscaping
A Berlin park and office space by Grüntuch Ernst Architeken offer a symbiotic relationship between urban design and green living materials
By Michael Webb Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated