Scene setting: With the chirp of bird song greeting show goers, it was immediately evident that JW Anderson had been cleaning house for spring. Not only had last season’s wood paneled runway divides been newly painted sage green, under foot the blonde parquetry floors had been tirelessly buffed to receive guests.
Mood board: Gather round because this season Anderson spun another tale of divergent references that once again came out of the spin cycle freshly scented with covetability. To start there was a homespun rawness to the collection’s hempish fabric focus that was best seen in his spiralised skirts and a white handkerchief hemmed ensemble that resembled pieced-together table linens. However, the organic charm of these pieces was juxtaposed with techno tunic tops and dresses that had been ombre dyed, resembling a sunset, and gathered down the centre like bistro curtains. Jackets, on the other hand, possessed far more structure. They were corseted, shirred or ruched, and possessed sleeves that were puffed up with plenty of Shakespearean drama.
Finishing touches: Anderson is now doing a bountiful business in accessories – his JWA logo shoulder bags and roller heeled mules were well represented on the front row. Summer season aside, this time around it was all about architectural boots on the runway, which came with cubic heels and squared off toes. Some featured leather checkerboard patchworks, while others were entirely hand painted. A midi heeled, lace-up ballet pump was also in the mix – it’s a ‘walkable’ height that’s proving to be a sweet spot at retail. Not to be overshadowed by Anderson’s jangly silver drop earrings – worn solo – which looked like pinecones and Christmas bells had spawned an offspring.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
New Mater tables by Patricia Urquiola are made from recycled coffee beansThe Alder collection of tables by Patricia Urquiola for Mater make their debut at Milan Design Week 2024, and are made of a specially-developed material made from recycled coffee beans
-
Frank Stephenson’s high-flying capsule design for HALO’s balloon-powered space flightsSpace start-up HALO promises zero-emission travel to the stratosphere in a futuristic viewing capsule shaped by Frank Stephenson Design
-
Back to Black: all eyes on film-maker Sam Taylor-JohnsonBack to Black cinematographer Polly Morgan tells Wallpaper* how a shared love of French New Wave close-ups brought Sam Taylor-Johnson’s Amy Winehouse biopic to life
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
-
The ceramics show celebrating Soho's drinking culture -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
