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Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mood board: For spring, Francisco Costa mined classic Calvin territory, specifically the iconic slip dress that made the American designer a star of minimalism in the 1990s. But Costa’s was cooler and more modern than anything Klein ever designed: they are long and boxy in shape; have thicker strappy shoulders and feature deconstructed bits that gave them an arty quality.

Best in show: Costa pulled out a beautiful cherry blossom print this season, a rare but welcome territory for this reductive designer. The print was shown in two different tones for the front and backs of dresses and looked exceptional when trimmed with delicate gold chains.

Finishing touches: Welcome to the world of no-nonsense footwear, ladies. No matter how dressy one gets, the shoe should be flat and as comfortable as can be. Costa chose a slip on Vans-like style, cut from a shaved edge, cream satin that looked as great with wide leg crepe trousers as it did with dainty dresses.