Gone was the hyperbolic colour. Gone were the digital prints. Mary Katrantzou opted for a tectonic shift for spring - her charcoal strewn runway denoting a new beginning. This season the Greek designer's evolution began with Pangaea and Panthalassa - the 200-million-year-old supercontinent from early Geologic times that sparked a rebirth. Starting her show with a subdued palette of nude, foam green, sandstone and charcoal, the seed-beaded 'glitter' that you'd associate with smashed open rock crystals became her latest form of decoration - adorning a primal series of shimmering, panelled tops that were inlayed with transparent silk organza, like parting fault lines. Another new silhouette for Katrantzou was the spaghetti-strapped, V-neck camisole, split open at the back, and teamed with everything from jacquard pants to metallic embroidered minis that often featured tiny lingerie-like buttons down their front splits. Last season's pleated warrior dresses also got a flapper-style boudoir spin, as Katrantzou warmed up the colour palette, inserting shades of mauve, turquoise and lemon into her patchwork baby-doll styles that combined plissé and guipure lace, denoting early foliage and fauna creatures. From here, the designer just kept building upon the density of her embellishment until her evening wear finale erupted like ocean ridges, fusing molten rock-like embroidery with horsehair textures.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
