Scene setting: The vacant 54th floor of One Manhattan West, a recently completed skyscraper designed by SOM, located just shy of Hudson Yards, offered up incredible 360 degree views of New York City as the setting for Sies Marjan A/W 2020 collection. It was an appropriate, juxtapository lens to view designer Sander Lak's 10th runway collection, especially since Lak drew inspiration from Rem Koolhaas' upcoming exhibition Countryside, The Future, which opens at the Guggenheim Museum next week.
Mood board: The Koolhaas/AMO exhibition, which explores the urgent environmental, political and socioeconomic issues faced by remote, wild and rural areas known collectively as the countryside, prompted Lak to focus on traditional craftsmanship this season. Ranging from Guernsey knits that have been hand-finished by a family-owned factory to using authentic Donegal yarn spun by a mill dating back to the 1920s, several artisans were roped into creating the fabrics on display.
Team work: The heirloom quality of the label's new offerings reached especially great heights with one particular collaboration with the visual artist Diana Scherer. Scherer, who has developed a biological technique to control the growth of plant roots to turn a natural root system into textiles, created custom textiles for the label, which resemble felted wool rippled with thread-like roots. Complemented by prints created by contact dyeing locally found foliage, made in collaboration with Cornell University, and applied to oversized workwear and utilitarian silhouettes, the result was a collection equally rooted in the past and future — making it Lak's most sophisticated effort yet.
Sies Marjan A/W 2020
Sies Marjan A/W 2020
Sies Marjan A/W 2020
Sies Marjan A/W 2020
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Last chance to see: Sharjah Biennial 15, ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’Built on the vision of late curator Okwui Enwezor, the Sharjah Biennial 15: ‘Thinking Historically in the Present’ offers a critical reframing of postcolonial narratives through major new commissions
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For London Gallery Weekend 2023, the mood is hardcore
With London Gallery Weekend 2023 almost upon us (2 – 4 June), here’s our list of must-see art exhibitions
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Birkenstock celebrates its most memorable styles with colourful capsule (and matching socks)
Birkenstock marks the 40th, 50th and 60th anniversaries of the Gizeh, Arizona and Madrid sandals, respectively, with limited-edition versions
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
Octogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
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Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
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Gabriela Hearst A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
