Mood board: The show’s opening look signalled a fiercer, freer mood; a soft caramel coat, paired with a chocolate vest and a sheer pencil skirt formed from lengths of chainmail, showcased to a pulsing techno mix of My Mind by Ace of Base. The mind was top priority for creative director Paul Andrew, who’d been considering the fluid facets of female identity, describing female character as a ‘shifting kaleidoscope’ and reading Carl Jung’s theories on the seven feminine archetypes, including The Lover and The Mystic. He also looked to a wide variety of women from Nina Simone to Nancy Pelosi, in a collection culminating in elegant, glamorous silhouettes, like a strapless jumpsuit with a cut out back and delicate chain belt, coats with chevron quilting and slippery bias cut dresses with leather cuffs and asymmetric caped suits.
Finishing touches: Since taking the helm of the brand, Andrew has looked to its illustrious footwear history as ready-to-wear inspiration. Its signature bow detail Viva shoe was not only updated in slingbacks and block heel thigh high boots, but its grosgrain bow construct was imagined as a hair clip, and was used as a fabric to fluidly adorn black column dresses in soft 3D chain links.
Team work: In his research, Andrew found a book by Fulvia Ferragamo, full of inspirational botanical images (also a reference noted on the Prada catwalk). This culimated in a series of autumnal prints across caped trenchcoats, skirts and skirts, boasting delicate macramé details in the shape of leaves and flowers. §
