Mood board: The sea has proved inspiration for designers for A/W 2020. Take Simone Rocha’s collection, inspired by the 1904 play, Riders to the Sea by John Millington Synge, which had a shipwreck sensibility, featuring rope like Aran knits, trailing pearls and fishing net inspired bags. Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths imagined his intelligent, executive women — who favour sharp pinstripe tailoring and the brand’s classic camel coat — dreaming of an Arctic open sea adventure, and her accompanying dreamt up outfits had a whimsical, nautical nod. This meant an offering in deep ocean blue, browns and greys that featured frothy ruffles, nautical stripes and technical waterproof nylons, from frilled shirting to puff sleeve divers coats (padded with luxurious cashmere fleece), tactile teddy bear fur jackets to lean velvet dresses with beaded chain details.
Best in show: Leg of mutton sleeve shirting nodded to one of autumn’s most enduring constructions, and had a bold eighties attitude. A sweeping navy and camel stripe coat in teddy bear fur would take any Max Mara woman straight from the office to portside-embarkation and a pinstripe jersey suit with tasseled toggles would ensure she sets sail in crease free tailoring.
Finishing touches: Nautical rope belts were used to cinch the waists of poufy sleeve overcoats and tied around high waisted tailored trousers, while an array of beanie hats had a sailor-chic all-aboard sensibility.
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Design Miami announces Dubai collectible design platform in collaboration with AlserkalThe new platform will honour the region’s cultural heritage while highlighting its spirit of innovation
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In Milan, the fashion world gathers to say goodbye to Giorgio Armani at his final showOriginally planned to mark the 50th anniversary of Giorgio Armani’s eponymous house, Sunday evening’s runway show at Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera would prove to be the last from the designer, who passed away earlier this month aged 91
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Dario Vitale makes sexually-charged debut for Versace, inspired by the ‘bold attitude’ of Gianni VersaceSucceeding Donatella Versace, the ex-Miu Miu design director is the first to helm the brand outside of the Versace family. His debut last night in Milan was staged within the opulent rooms of Pinacoteca Ambrosiana
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The standout shows of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2026This season in Milan, the city is enjoying a wave of creative director debuts, from Demna at Gucci to Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta. Here are the Wallpaper* highlights so far
