Mood board: The power of self-expression has enchanted designers on the Milan catwalks. At Prada, the tropes associated with feminine glamour were celebrated and at Fendi, the dichotomies in Silvia Venturini femme fatale were lauded — a woman part donna part vamp. For A/W 2020, Mr Armani fluctuated between the masculine and feminine, in a nighttime collection incorporating fluid tuxedo tailoring and exaggerated eveningwear. The mood was hyperbolic and fanciful, incorporating dandyish flourishes like velvet neck times, satin corsages, sequins and ruffles, in jewel tones like emerald and topaz and the designer’s much favoured grey.
Finishing touches: The opening section of the show was a nod to sustainability (the same rang true of Emporio Armani’s menswear show back in January). The phrase ‘I’m saying yes to recycling’ flashed up on screens around inside Armani’s Teatro show space, and a series of black and white opening looks — including high waisted shorts and bowler hats — were embroidered with the ‘word’ recycling or the slogan ‘R-EA’.
Best in show: The collection boasted eighty looks, and a series of houndstooth cocoon coats, paired with emerald velvet trousers had eighties appeal. A series of asymmetric capes, festooned with ruffles and 3D roses will have red carpet appeal. §
