Scene setting: Silicon Valley execs are buying land for safe houses in the Pacific Northwest. Near Wichita, Kansas, The Survival Condo ownership project boasts luxury underground apartments for survivalists. New Zealand is seen as a post-apocalyptic paradise. In the United Kingdom, rumours swirl of supermarkets stockpiling food amidst Brexit chaos. Marine Serre is sensitive to our planet’s environmental instability. Last season, a third of her collection was created from upcycled fabrics. Her outdoors-shot SS19 campaign, released earlier this month, has a surreal edge, with an apocalyptic flaming sky. For A/W 2019, Serre bought guests into a vast subterranean vault in Issy-les-Moulineaux, imagining a dystopian environment where humans have sought refuge underground. Editors walked through a tunnel projecting green laser beams, before entering a vast space illuminated with ultraviolet light, with benches swathed with shaggy coloured fur and fleece.
Mood board: Serre’s survivalist chic incorporated hybrid silhouettes, which reflect her sports-meets-couture aesthetic. Full body suits emblazoned with her signature half moon prints were layered with nipped tartan two pieces, protective puffer jackets with shaggy fake fur, flowing scarf dresses, duvet-made capes and puffball mini skirts, in neon and reflective shades. These end-of-the-world wares had a hint of 90s raver, complete with berets, gas masks, sporty reflective shades and mountain boots. The pieces had a spliced and reassembled quality, with luxurious moiré paired with neoprene, printed silk with vinyl, as if stitched together from piles of clothes, detritus from Serre’s doomsday.
Finishing touches: Guests received a necklace as an invitation: a chain dangling with a seashell and a small pulsating light. Serre’s accompanying catwalk jewellery had a disaster-DIY aesthetic, and models jangled down the catwalk sporting oversized earrings and jingling chain belts strung together from driftwood, shells and micro chips.
Marine Serre A/W 2019.
Marine Serre A/W 2019.
Marine Serre A/W 2019.
Marine Serre A/W 2019.
-
The return of the bullhead: the watch design that refuses to conformLittle known outside of watch circles, but enthusiastically collected within them, bullhead watches have always been divisive. Identified by the crown at 12 o’clock, it made design sense – no digging into the wrist, allowing easier function as a stopwatch - but remains a speciality. But now, the bullhead is back
-
Tour Peridot, Hong Kong’s hypnotic new barLocated on the 38th floor of The Henderson, Studio Paolo Ferrari’s latest project is a study in ‘light, refraction, and intimacy’
-
Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
-
Inside Roger Vivier’s opulent new Paris HQ and archive, a haven for shoe loversWallpaper* takes a tour of ‘Maison Vivier’, an 18th-century hôtel particulier that houses the French shoemaker’s headquarters, studio and archive – an extraordinary collection of over 1,000 pairs of shoes
-
The key takeaways from the S/S 2026 shows: freedom, colour and romance define fashion’s new chapterWe unpack the trends and takeaways from the S/S 2026 season, which saw fashion embrace a fresh start with free-spirited collections and a bold exploration of colour and form
-
The independent designers you might have missed from fashion month S/S 2026Amid a tidal wave of big-house debuts, we take you through the independent displays that may have slipped through the cracks – from beautiful imagery to bookshop takeovers, museum displays and moves across the pond
-
From wearable skincare to scented runways, unpacking the unconventional beauty moments of fashion month S/S 2026The S/S 2026 season featured everything from probiotic-lined athleisure to fragranced runways – and those Maison Margiela mouthguards
-
Pierpaolo Piccioli makes Balenciaga debut ‘from a place of love and connection’Attended by Anne Hathaway and Meghan Markle, the ex-Valentino designer’s first runway display for Balenciaga took place within Kering’s Paris headquarters
-
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez make a bold start at Loewe, inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s ‘elemental colours’The former Proenza Schouler designers presented their debut collection for Loewe this morning, channelling ‘clarity and colour, sensual physicality, and sunniness’
-
‘Change is inevitable’: Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior womenswear collection recodes the house’s archiveAn audacious collection from the Northern Irish designer, presented in Paris this afternoon, saw him reconsider the Dior archive in his unwaveringly inventive style
-
Acne Studios’ cigar salon runway set is decorated with Pacifico Silano’s homoerotic ‘objects of desire’Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano breaks down his collaboration with Acne Studios, seeing his work – which zooms in on 1970s and 1980s gay erotica – backdrop the brand’s S/S 2026 show today in Paris
