Helmut Lang A/W 2019 New York Fashion Week Women's

Mood board: Few brands can lay claim to the cool, New York credentials that are synonymous with Helmut Lang. Representative of the 1990s zeitgeist, the label has unwaveringly tried to recapture the same magic it wielded more than 20 years before. In the last couple of years, Helmut Lang has tapped the expertise of ‘editors in residence', which has resulted in wide-ranging interpretations of what Helmut Lang means today. In contrast to the label's last runway showing for Spring/Summer 2018, which saw Hood by Air's Shayne Oliver infuse clothing with a streetwear aesthetic, this latest collection pays homage to the 1990s minimalism that Lang pioneered. Creative directors Mark Thomas and Thomas Cawson created a precise wardrobe of urban essentials primed for city life.

Scene setting: Staged in an empty retail space on a ground floor in Chelsea, showgoers were given a hip welcome with bottles of beer and cartons of water ready on hand. A screen, emblazoned with the label's iconic logo in red, later projected live feed of the runway presentation, giving everyone in the audience a 360 degree look at the collection.

Best in show: Tailoring took a renewed focus this season with inspirations drawn from the suiting of artist Joseph Beuys. Crafted in materials like grey wool flannel, lava melton wool, polished black leather and double-face white viscose, these new renditions possessed a captivating vigour that teased the eye.