Mood board: It’s been four seasons since British designer Paul Surridge took the creative helm at Cavalli – the Florence-founded house renowned for its unabashed glamour, sex appeal and swathes of animal print. Surridge is a menswear designer, and since he joined the label he’s been working to negotiate the more tailored and pared-back traits of his training with something more overt, sexy and swagger-filled. For women’s this came in a graphic stripe print which drew on the heritage of the house, emblazoned on tailored coats and dresses, sky blue snakeskin jackets, armour-like knitted dresses in mustard and flowing fuchsia gowns – nodding to the brand’s famed perfume dress. For men’s, slick tailoring in raspberry and powder blue, sporty puffer jackets, leather trousers and fur coats.
Best in show: Pieces which counterbalanced the coquettish with the contemporary had maximum impact, like a women’s white tuxedo suit paired with an embellished second-skin blouse, or a double-breasted leather coat shining with regimental buttons, and paired with matching knee high boots.
Finishing touches: Jewellery was oversized and unabashed, seen in chain link chokers and oversized earrings glinting like chocolate wrappers. §
