Mood board: Brown is back. Outside the shows, the pavements are populated with figures donning caramel and taupe. Mr Armani is a master of colour, so trust him, then, to switch up autumn’s expected colour palette and present a good proportion of his 70-strong A/W 2019 collection in scintillating scarlet. He referenced the idea of freestyling in his show notes, and his collection touched on evening wear, sports and workwear, in tweeds, scribble velvets, floral jacquards and tartan organza, featuring strapless dresses shimmering paillettes, striped 1980s tailoring and natty puffer jackets.
Scene setting: Last season Mr Armani had guests check in at Linate airport for his show, holding a several thousand-strong catwalk extravaganza in an aircraft hanger emblazoned with an enormous Emporio Armani sign. He even threw in a surprise performance from Robbie Williams. For A/W 2019 the brand returned its stark Tadao Ando-designed HQ. As the show began, the Emporio Armani eagle symbol was illuminated in a tessellation of red laser beams.
Best in show: The opening look – a jacquard mini dress in pretty pink florals, was paired with an excellent white duster coat. Elsewhere a scarlet short tuxedo suit was a youthful take on a wardrobe staple. §
