Scene setting: The luxury industry today is driven by revenue and profit margins, conglomerate competition and the race to produce the season’s ‘it’ design (be it a logo emblazoned T-shirt or entry-level trainer). It’s refreshing that fashion label Symonds Permain, founded by conceptual designer Anthony Symonds and super stylist Max Pearmain is anti mass-market and high fashion homogeneity. Since launching in 2016, the brand has sold its designs like art pieces, through Bortolozzi in Berlin and Cabinet Gallery in London. Six months ago, it launched e-commerce with limited runs of product. For spring, Symonds Permain has launched an exclusive collection with Matchesfashion.com, and in celebration of the release, showcased its A/W 2019 collection in an intimate salon show, on the ground floor of the retailer’s Mayfair townhouse, 5 Carlos Place.
Mood board: There was a strong dose of irony in Symonds Permains’ show notes. They contained an excerpt from Volume 1 of Georges Batallie’s The Accursed Share, a 1940s economics essay positing that part of the human economy is going to be wasted on luxurious items. Models, including brand regular Lily McMenamy pranced down the catwalk, in a colour palette of khaki, camel and brown. They cavorted in equestrian jodphurs and quaint dog-cartoon pantaloons, bow detail rugby shirts, leather motorcross jackets with in-built neckerchiefs, and doodled William Morris print trousers. Theatrical and fancy, and importantly for fashion week, fun.
Team work: Striped and intarsia knitwear, layered over the body or styled with a deconstruction twist, came courtesy of Pringle of Scotland. Manolo Blahnik provided footwear, and its signature pilgrim buckle mules were imagined in yellow tartan and with blush pink ribbons which laced up the leg.
Symonds Pearmain A/W 2019.
-
The mibot is a tiny single-seater ‘mobility robot’ for traversing Japan’s crowded city centresJapan is the undisputed centre of compact car culture, and KG Motors' new mibot is one of a new wave of micro-EVs that look set to take the country’s cities by storm
-
The Lake House is a tree-inspired retreat making the most of Berlin’s natureThe Lake House by Sigurd Larsen is a nature-inspired retreat in west Berlin, surrounded by trees and drawing on their timber nature
-
The McLaren W1 is the latest in the sports car maker's tech-saturated Ultimate SeriesFirst F1, then P1 and now W1, McLaren Automotive reveals its latest limited-edition supercar to the world, a £2m concoction of hybrid power and active aero that is, unsurprisingly, already sold out
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's -
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
