Mood board: Sophistication has swagger again. After seasons of trainers and sportswear, a new take on smart dressing is dominating. Just look to the smart foulard silks, pencil skirts and pussybow blouses, which Riccardo Tisci debuted at Burberry last season. Outside the shows, hair clips, trench coats and kitten heels are taking centre stage. Ports 1961 has always had a smart yet playful sensibility. Its signature piece is the shirt.
For A/W 2019, the staples of bourgeois dressing, from twinsets to evening dresses fascinated creative director Nataša Cagalj. These were reinterpreted with off-kilter elements, like camel dresses appearing undone at the collarbone, asymmetrically cut blazers and vinyl mackintoshes with flyaway sleeves. Eveningwear and tailoring but twisted and turned. Classic grey, camel, black and white, offset with pops of satsuma, carmine and eggshell.
Best in show: From cashmere to camel hair, bonded wool to houndstooth, luxury lay here in Cagalj’s fabrications. Standout was a zebra stripe knitted sweater with trailing threads, oversized oblique cut blazers and a camel coat worn on the reverse, dangling with long threads of gold chainmail.
Finishing touches: Long tassels dangled from model’s ears or hung low on the décolleté as pendants. The fine strands resembled not bourgeois string of beads, gemstones or plumes of feathers, but dense lengths of hair.
-
Messika’s fluid jewellery is given a textural twistThe Parisian brand borrows a textural finish previously reserved for high jewellery with its new collection, ‘Move Ciselé’
-
This ingenious London office expansion was built in an on-site workshopNew Wave London and Thomas-McBrien Architects make a splash with this glulam extension built in the very studio it sought to transform. Here's how they did it
-
The bespoke Jaguar E-Type GTO melds elements from every era of the classic sports carECD Automotive Design’s one-off commission caters to a client who wanted to combine the greatest hits of Jaguar’s E-Type along with modern conveniences and more power
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
