Scene setting: The Musée d'Art Moderne couldn't be a more fitting place for Paco Rabanne. After all, this is a brand that was built on modernity in the 1960s. How to translate that concept almost 60 years later is certainly a tricky one, but that hasn't deterred French designer Julien Dosséna from trying, more or less with success, for the last few years. But this one was one of his best efforts, beautifully staged within the pristine walls of a long curved room in the museum, through which the models marched as cold white lights fell upon them. It was all very 2001.
Moodboard: When Spanish 'it girl' Sita Abellán is in attendance, you can be sure the cool factor is also gonna be there. And it was: Dosséna managed to turn his girls into hi-tech, sporty Joans of Arc who, despite the very different inspirations cast upon them, still looked effortless. He also went further than ever before in his exploration of knitwear and came up with a series of very wearable oversized jumpers and long bodycon backless dresses – particularly covetable especially when they came in dark green.
Best in show: Metallic never looked as good in Dosséna's hands as it did today. Forgoing the complicated asymmetries, constructions and cutouts he has sometimes adventured into, he went instead for simple, figure-hugging party dresses. Spaghetti straps, below-the-knee skirts, tee-shirt shapes and exposed midriffs were everywhere and looked every bit the edgy party girl part. But the piece that particularly caught our attention was a hooded dress combining metallic panels and grey-blue jersey worn by Mica Arganaraz. More of that, please!
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
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‘Very Roman, very Bulgari’: Mary Katrantzou on the ancient roots of her opulent first accessories collection for BulgariGreek fashion designer Mary Katrantzou, Bulgari’s new creative director of leather goods and accessories, breaks down her debut ‘Calla’ collection for Wallpaper*
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First look: Western Mongolia meets Kew Gardens in John Pawson and Oyuna Tserendorj’s cashmere throwsArchitectural designer John Pawson and cashmere designer Oyuna Tserendor have collaborated on a cashmere throw collection inspired by Pawson’s 70m Lake Crossing in the Royal Botanical Gardens
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How to buy art: the accessible new marketThanks to a growing pool of art advisers, digital intelligence and collector groups, buyers are better equipped than ever
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
