Scene setting: The Musée d'Art Moderne couldn't be a more fitting place for Paco Rabanne. After all, this is a brand that was built on modernity in the 1960s. How to translate that concept almost 60 years later is certainly a tricky one, but that hasn't deterred French designer Julien Dosséna from trying, more or less with success, for the last few years. But this one was one of his best efforts, beautifully staged within the pristine walls of a long curved room in the museum, through which the models marched as cold white lights fell upon them. It was all very 2001.
Moodboard: When Spanish 'it girl' Sita Abellán is in attendance, you can be sure the cool factor is also gonna be there. And it was: Dosséna managed to turn his girls into hi-tech, sporty Joans of Arc who, despite the very different inspirations cast upon them, still looked effortless. He also went further than ever before in his exploration of knitwear and came up with a series of very wearable oversized jumpers and long bodycon backless dresses – particularly covetable especially when they came in dark green.
Best in show: Metallic never looked as good in Dosséna's hands as it did today. Forgoing the complicated asymmetries, constructions and cutouts he has sometimes adventured into, he went instead for simple, figure-hugging party dresses. Spaghetti straps, below-the-knee skirts, tee-shirt shapes and exposed midriffs were everywhere and looked every bit the edgy party girl part. But the piece that particularly caught our attention was a hooded dress combining metallic panels and grey-blue jersey worn by Mica Arganaraz. More of that, please!
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
Paco Rabanne A/W 2017 A/W 2017.
-
Yevheniia Dubrovska brings a contemporary warmth to an art collector’s apartment in KyivAn interior project by Yevheniia Dubrovska puts the emphasis on local materials and clean space
-
Mapping modern Cambridge architecture
A modern Cambridge architecture map offers immersive tours through the British city’s 20th century gems
-
From darkness to everlasting light: all you need to know about the first Islamic Arts Biennale
Rebecca Anne Proctor travels to Jeddah to explore the world’s first Islamic Arts Biennale (until 23 April), a monumental survey of Islamic arts and culture in the religion’s birthplace, modern-day Saudi Arabia
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
