Scene setting: For his second solo show, Olivier Theyskens chose as his location Le Train Bleu, the rococo, gold-rimmed and frescoed restaurant inside the Gare de Lyon. Parisians swarmed in gasping – curiously, most of them said they didn't even know the place existed – at the paintings on the walls and the ceiling, depicting typical French holiday destinations from the Alps to the Côte d'Azur. Guests were seated in peacock blue leather benches overlooking the wooden bar, wondering what to expect from the collection, given that the last one was shown in a minimal, pristine white cube.
Mood board: Last season, Theysken's collection was criticised for being too ‘tame’, ‘minimal’ and ‘wearable’. Did this change of scenery mean the Belgian designer had moved away from the Theory aesthetic and back to his dramatic Rochas years? Well, yes and no. While the collection was undoubtedly more audacious (taffeta ruffles, long coats and tulle mile-feuilles were joyfully present), there was a sense of realism to the whole affair, as exemplified by the cashmere sweaters – often worn under satin corsets – and the skinny brocade trousers (wearable and super covetable at the same time).
Best in show: Following an almost all-black first collection, guests at today's show were delighted when, early on, a pistachio green mini dress in stiff silk grosgrain made its appearance on the catwalk. It was followed by a long Edwardian-inspired coat in the same material but a clementine shade. But the highlight of the show was undoubtedly a theatrical black mid-calf ruffled taffeta dress, a good reminder of what the Theyskens can do. And exactly what we want more of.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2017.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2017.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2017.
Olivier Theyskens A/W 2017.
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Broken up into six pavilions, this brutalist Mexican house is embedded in the landscapeSordo Madaleno’s brutalist Mexican house, Rancho del Bosque, is divided up into a series of pavilions to preserve the character of its hillside site, combining concrete, curves and far-reaching views
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Etihad Airways’ A321LR redefines the single-aisle experienceAbu Dhabi’s flagship carrier brings wide-body sensibility to its new generation Airbus aircraft, a rethink of what short and medium-haul travel can feel like
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Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expectFive moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
