Akris A/W 2017
Albert Kriemler’s collection delves into the subconscious and riffs on Canadian artist Rodney Graham’s work

Scene setting: Albert Kriemler’s collection explored the subconscious relationship that women have with coats and bags – pieces they pick up or slip into before embarking upon their day. The designer is renowned for his collaboration with artists and architects, from Sou Fujimoto to Thomas Ruff, and for A/W 2017, he teamed up with the Canadian artist Rodney Graham on a series of self-portraits of the artist donning an overcoat. These portraits hung on the walls of the show space at the Palais de Tokyo, viewed through glass screens that were positioned on the catwalk. Graham himself also sat front row, and was embraced by Kriemler as he took his bow at the show’s finale.
Mood board: The timeless colour palette – composed of black, aubergine, navy, white and grey – featured on elegant knitwear, sheer dresses and trouser suits. A chunky oversized cardigan and pocket detail shift dress provided a single flourish of fuchsia, while coats – the main motif behind the collection were imagined in furs, tweeds, leather, plaids and with geometric cut-out details.
Best in show: The black and white photographic self-portraits positioned on the walls of the space were also imagined on the backs of a series of coats at the finale. The images, which feature Graham in the various stages of putting on a coat, were presented almost as a dynamic flip book as four models stood together, the images presented chronologically in their various stages of application.
Akris A/W 2017
Akris A/W 2017
Akris A/W 2017
Akris A/W 2017
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Beloved sushi restaurant Sōgo Roll Bar comes to Highland Park
The sushi hangout begins a new chapter in its second location, becoming the perfect spot for a quick grab-and-go or a relaxed tasting experience in east LA
-
Japanese designer Shinichiro Ogata's latest venture is a modern riff on the traditions of his home country
As he launches Saboe, a series of new tearooms and shops across Japan, we delve into Shinichiro Ogata's creative vision, mirrored throughout the spaces and objects, rituals and moments of his projects
-
These are Dover Street Market’s jewellery designers to watch, exhibiting at the London store all summer
In a special exhibition, Dover Street Market London is highlighting 36 emerging jewellery designers to know – shop our pick of their pieces
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: what to expect
Five moments to look out for at Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 in Paris (starting Monday 7 July), from Glenn Martens’ debut for Maison Margiela to Demna’s Balenciaga swansong. Plus, ‘new beginnings’ from JW Anderson
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris
‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's