Scene setting: Albert Kriemler’s collection explored the subconscious relationship that women have with coats and bags – pieces they pick up or slip into before embarking upon their day. The designer is renowned for his collaboration with artists and architects, from Sou Fujimoto to Thomas Ruff, and for A/W 2017, he teamed up with the Canadian artist Rodney Graham on a series of self-portraits of the artist donning an overcoat. These portraits hung on the walls of the show space at the Palais de Tokyo, viewed through glass screens that were positioned on the catwalk. Graham himself also sat front row, and was embraced by Kriemler as he took his bow at the show’s finale.
Mood board: The timeless colour palette – composed of black, aubergine, navy, white and grey – featured on elegant knitwear, sheer dresses and trouser suits. A chunky oversized cardigan and pocket detail shift dress provided a single flourish of fuchsia, while coats – the main motif behind the collection were imagined in furs, tweeds, leather, plaids and with geometric cut-out details.
Best in show: The black and white photographic self-portraits positioned on the walls of the space were also imagined on the backs of a series of coats at the finale. The images, which feature Graham in the various stages of putting on a coat, were presented almost as a dynamic flip book as four models stood together, the images presented chronologically in their various stages of application.
