Scene setting: The award for the most invigorating set of London Fashion Week goes to Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos, who filled the Waldorf Hilton’s Palm Court with an eclectic assortment of objects made by some of their artist friends. Bethan Laura Wood contributed a geometric print sofa; Peter McDonald offered a triptych of his vibrant paintings; while an entire spectrum of Martino Gamper’s angular signature stools provided the show’s seating. Elsewhere, three large palm trees sprouted – as if by magic – from the centre of the space, lending a sunny West Coast vibe to a rather grey west London.
Mood board: Pilotto and de Vos utilised an impressive number of time-honoured craft techniques in their extraordinary A/W 2017 collection. Eclectic, experimental and admirably crafted, the line featured crosshatch tweed jackets, lace ombré dresses, sculptural wool tailoring and magnificent wool sweater-dresses. Furthermore, they tapped the storied Viennese shoe brand Ludwig Reiter to craft plush velvet slippers and embroidered leather riding boots especially for the show.
Best in show: The elaborate outerwear best exemplified the artisan techniques that Peter Pilotto had diligently employed. Think Peruvian Nazca quilting, rug knitting and quilting. However, the simple bias-cut silk dresses had a wonderful sense of ease that felt lost elsewhere.
