1205 A/W 2016
Mood board: Tactility took on new meaning at Paula Gerbase’s A/W 2016 ‘Fools Gold’ collection, presented to the beat of goblet drums. In a world of endless choice, Gerbase’s reductionist approach is looking increasingly appealing and this season she celebrated ‘the purity of the untouched’ by honoring the invisible. As per usual, everything on her 1205 runway had a functional simplicity that masterfully concealed the complexity of her precision tailoring prowess.
Best in show: Gerbase’s collections always push the envelope on fabrication and particular highlights this season included a navy broken rib wool and double face copper polyamide (the latter resembling a fine honeycomb chain mail), from which she engineered tapered tunics. Minimalist white cotton thobes and long split skirts cut from a lustrous red ochre polyester similarly brought home the urban nomad theme. That said, it was Gerbase’s primitive shearling wrap skirt, paired with an architectural blouse made from transparent waterproof organza, which effortlessly endorsed the simple elegance of utilitarian dressing.
Finishing touches: The designer took a similarly relaxed approach to footwear this season with white soled, ecru macramé giveh loafers (which while suitable for casual beach combing, also possessed a sturdiness that you would expect from her John Lobb connections) and pointed babouche slippers that turned up at the toe in the traditional Arabic fashion.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans