Scene setting: Granted that last season's indoor garden setting was a hard one to beat, Thom Browne managed to one-up himself by creating an eerie, Victorian-gothic morgue, surrounded by a wood-paneled viewing gallery. In each of the three presentation areas, a girl laid still on top of a metal examination table, as a pair of male angels watched over her, all dressed in white.
Best in show: The real show began when the tables were wheeled out and a funeral procession of mourners descended. Set to one continuous track from Bjork's new album, each of the looks was comprised of complex, multiple layers of exquisite and intricately finished fabrics - all in black. From a lace driving coat trimmed in black mink, to embellished mini dresses (long sleeved, of course) and pinstriped suits that played with proportions, the collection was one dark, unbroken reverie.
Finishing touches: Browne's stunning sartorial creations were each finished off with hats and veils created by Stephen Jones. Shaped to resemble different hairstyles, the adornments brought a graphic theatricality to the looks and were a fascinating aspect of the collection themselves. Handbags came in the form of embossed leather doctor's bags and even whale-shaped (Browne's motif of choice), for a touch of whimsy.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Wayne McGregor on collaborating with fashion designer Grace Wales Bonner to outfit youth dance workAhead of the London premiere of ‘Novacene’ – Wayne McGregor’s new work for the National Youth Dance Company – the choreographer talks about collaborating with Grace Wales Bonner on the performance’s costumes at Sadler’s Wells
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In memoriam: Paolo Portoghesi (1931 - 2023)
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Cindy Sherman’s freaky new portrait collages dissect the divided self
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Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New York
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‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The Met
The first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
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Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis Group
Memphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
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‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQ
The Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
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Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute
‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
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Why seersucker is integral to Thom Browne’s design DNA
The brand's ‘Seersucker season' S/S 2020 offering celebrates the preppy puckered fabric, which first attracted its founder in his youth
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Theory A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
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Michael Kors A/W 2020 New York Fashion Week Women’s
