Scene setting: Granted that last season's indoor garden setting was a hard one to beat, Thom Browne managed to one-up himself by creating an eerie, Victorian-gothic morgue, surrounded by a wood-paneled viewing gallery. In each of the three presentation areas, a girl laid still on top of a metal examination table, as a pair of male angels watched over her, all dressed in white.
Best in show: The real show began when the tables were wheeled out and a funeral procession of mourners descended. Set to one continuous track from Bjork's new album, each of the looks was comprised of complex, multiple layers of exquisite and intricately finished fabrics - all in black. From a lace driving coat trimmed in black mink, to embellished mini dresses (long sleeved, of course) and pinstriped suits that played with proportions, the collection was one dark, unbroken reverie.
Finishing touches: Browne's stunning sartorial creations were each finished off with hats and veils created by Stephen Jones. Shaped to resemble different hairstyles, the adornments brought a graphic theatricality to the looks and were a fascinating aspect of the collection themselves. Handbags came in the form of embossed leather doctor's bags and even whale-shaped (Browne's motif of choice), for a touch of whimsy.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The Mercedes-Benz Vision Iconic is automotive haute couture, a concept with cinematic styleThe Vision Iconic concept makes a play for a new approach to future luxury, blending art-deco excess with neo-gothic trimmings and monumental scale
-
María Berrío creates fantastical worlds from Japanese-paper collages in New YorkNew York-based Colombian artist María Berrío explores a love of folklore and myth in delicate and colourful works on paper
-
A once-abandoned Mayfair schoolhouse is set to become London's ultimate destination for crafted artsGallerist Sarah Myerscough opens a new permanent location, which will serve as a space to celebrate and foster craftsmanship in the city
-
The standout shows of New York Fashion Week S/S 2026 – as they happenedHeralding the start of fashion month, the latest edition of NYFW took place in the city this week. Here, in our rolling round-up, Wallpaper* picks the highlights
-
Everything you need to know about the Met Gala 2025 and ‘Superfine: Tailoring Black Style’ exhibitionEverything Wallpaper* knows about the Met Gala 2025 – from the dress code to the exhibition theme and A-list co-chairs
-
Sarah Moon brings painterly fashion and dark fantasy to Fotografiska New YorkOctogenarian French photographer and filmmaker Sarah Moon shows 30 years of work at Fotografiska New York – spanning fashion and fantasy, mystery and the macabre, it’s dark, painterly and compelling
-
‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion' is coming to The MetThe first of a two-part, year-long extravaganza, ‘In America: A Lexicon of American Fashion’ is organised into 12 sections that seek to define the emotional qualities in American style
-
Saint Laurent celebrates 40 years of Memphis GroupMemphis Group's milestone birthday is celebrated with a series of colourful furniture installations across the French maison's concept boutiques
-
‘A place for the eye to pause’: Ulla Johnson unveils New York HQThe Manhattan-born fashion designer opens a warmly-hued style sanctuary, created in collaboration with architect Rafael de Cárdenas
-
Es Devlin-designed time-travelling exhibition opens at The Met’s Costume Institute‘Our aim is to communicate the phenomenon of time as it is expressed through the female form,’ says Devlin of the exhibition she has designed alongside curator Andrew Bolton
-
Why seersucker is integral to Thom Browne’s design DNAThe brand's ‘Seersucker season' S/S 2020 offering celebrates the preppy puckered fabric, which first attracted its founder in his youth
