Mood board: Paula Gerbase's notes may have read the 'The Eloquence of Ornament', but her show opening - a series of ribbed funnel necks, layered over similarly knitted tabards and three-quarter length pants - soon made apparent that her obsession continues to be fabrication, rather than overt embellishment. The only exception was the designer's introduction of a fine metal, almost tribal, ring fastening, which was used to sculpt her alpaca bouclés and secure her masculine tailoring to the body.
Scene setting: Gerbase chose the Barbican Centre's conservatory oasis as her new A/W venue, which transplanted guests into a luscious urban jungle as the winter sun set through the Brutalist building's transparent roofing.
Best in show: In keeping with the garden theme, utilitarian workwear staples from flap-pocketed five button jackets to boiler suits and woollen parkas were updated in the finest textiles. Gerbase reverted back to her knitwear's monastic purity, too, pairing apron topped pleated pants back with her signature starched Swiss cotton voile shirting.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Jaç Hi-Fi Café brings Japanese listening-bar culture to BarcelonaIsern Serra Studio unveils a sound-sculpted interior that brings Japanese listening traditions into Catalonia’s contemporary design landscape
-
Modernist and contemporary Brazilian furniture face off in this LA exhibition‘Lightness & Tension’ (5-19 September 2025) features the work of Joaquim Tenreiro and Lucas Simões, as curator and dealer Ulysses de Santi explores the trajectory Brazilian furniture design
-
A refreshed Victorian home in London is soft, elegant and primed for hostingSobremesa house by architects Studio McW shows off its renovation and extension, designed for entertaining
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
