The sweltering temperatures of Paris' Palais de Tokyo - the setting for Acne Studios' show - were a disconnect from the Swedish brand's strong focus this season on body-wrapping thermal outerwear. But no matter: most of it looked terrific. Especially strong was the shaved shearling, oversized sleeveless black coat that opened the show, and a crisp white leather anorak lined in curly grey lambs wool. Though those pieces had a clean, purist flair, this season creative director Jonny Johansson made a strong case for wild patterns and prints. Swirling graphics inspired by waves provided a key motif and were either printed onto tent-like leather anoraks or, a version that we particularly loved, onto wool with micro popcorn tweed intarsias. This wise play of graphics allowed Johansson to let his eccentricity loose, which he is so often inclined to do but often confined by tightly regimented boundaries. Sometimes the styling got a bit tricky - think shrug-like shawls - but this was mostly a strong collection filled with very convincing pieces. Case in point: the black and white zebra printed calfskin culottes that were paired with a funnel neck, drawstring wool vest printed with the curved swirls in beige and white. It was a graphic punch that packed just the right balance of trend and taste.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
