The sweltering temperatures of Paris' Palais de Tokyo - the setting for Acne Studios' show - were a disconnect from the Swedish brand's strong focus this season on body-wrapping thermal outerwear. But no matter: most of it looked terrific. Especially strong was the shaved shearling, oversized sleeveless black coat that opened the show and a crisp white leather anorak lined in curly grey lambswool. Though those pieces had a clean, purist flair, this season, creative director Jonny Johansson made a strong case for wild patterns and prints. Swirling graphics inspired by waves provided a key motif and were either printed onto tent-like leather anoraks or, a version that we particularly loved, onto wool with micro popcorn tweed intarsias. This wise play of graphics allowed Johansson to let his eccentricity loose, which he is so often inclined to do but is often confined by tightly regimented boundaries. Sometimes the styling got a bit tricky - think shrug-like shawls - but this was mostly a strong collection filled with very convincing pieces. Case in point: the black and white zebra printed calfskin culottes that were paired with a funnel neck, drawstring wool vest printed with the curved swirls in beige and white. It was a graphic punch that packed just the right balance of trend and taste.
-
São Paulo Biennial 2023: activism, repressed cultures and South America’s art history under the lensThe 35th São Paulo Biennial considers ‘Choreographies of the Impossible’ as the theme. Amah-Rose Abrams reports on what to see
-
Jacqueline Rabun’s sculptural jewellery design goes on show in London
‘Jacqueline Rabun: A Retrospective’ opens at London’s Carpenters Workshop Gallery
-
Tokujin Yoshioka’s flaming glass cauldron sets Tokyo alight
Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka plays with fire with an exhibition of glass torches and cauldrons, on view at 21_21 Design Sight Gallery 3 in Tokyo (until 5 November 2023)
-
Acne Studios’ new Paris store combines classicism and counterculture
Opening on Rue Saint-Honoré, the new store utilises Saint Maximin stone to monolithic effect. Here, Acne Studios’ creative director Jonny Johansson and architects Arquitectura-G tell Wallpaper* the story behind the project
-
Acne Studios’ A/W 2022 show set featured sunken living rooms
For Swedish brand Acne Studio’s A/W 2022 womenswear show at Paris Fashion Week, guests snuggled into sunken living rooms, swathed in cosy fake fur
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
