Topshop Unique A/W 2014

Given that the democratisation of fashion is Topshop's chief brand pillar, it's presentation within the Tate Modern's colossal Turbine Hall - each overlooking balcony crammed to the brim with members of the public - was a tactful touch. Moving away from the exclusivity of guest list-only sets, this week Tate-goers can take in the Richard Hamilton retrospective followed by a fashion show, simply by peering into the Topshop-sponsored show space; so you can imagine the turnout for its runway line Unique. After all, Topshop's inclusive philosophy speaks directly to every woman, while also encouraging individuality, and that's what we got on the runway. This season's message started prim - think polite oversized mohair coats, work-appropriate grey tailoring and an almost dainty off-the-shoulder black corset dress - before flexing a raging rebellious streak. Indeed, LL Cool J would like his velveteen puffer back please, not to mention a standout red, brown and pink patchwork fur coat, and stocking tops that were beaded to resemble 3D tattoos. Still, Topshop's real feat is the volume of infectious energy it inspires - all you had to do was look up into the gallery in this case. There was nothing this audience wouldn't try once: quilted puffer shorts, mustard snakeskin, lemon leather, a Big Bird muffler or frostbitten florals. The only thing off-limits in this instance was getting too close to star patron Kate Moss holding court in the front row.

Photography: Jason-Lloyd Evans