Mood board: ‘I wanted this to be something that was romantic,’ JW Anderson said of his elegant S/S 2020 collection. The djellabas in suede, the crisp white sailor suiting and washed silk dungarees emanated a youthful, nomadic ease, something the designer said ‘felt nymphlike’. Stiff silk organza was sculpted info floral broaches, attached behind the ears, their feather stems twitching as the models walked. ‘I wanted something that was more of a kind of dreamscape, like there was an effortlessness to it – this is what the brand is about. It’s sensual. It’s light’ – all of the key codes that Anderson has been building on for the last six years. It evoked a 1970s resort fluency. The flap of the house’s oro ‘cashmere’ suede ushered in the minimal, reductivist look.
Scene setting: Short suits in layers of poplin and voile, denim duffle coats and dhoti-like trousers were rooted in a bohemian, travelling spirit. ‘I wanted it to feel like Alice in Wonderland, like you could just tumble away. You could go to the beach or you could not go to the beach,’ he said. Guests sat on Knoll’s re-issue of Eero Saarinen’s Conference Chair, made for Maison de l’UNESCO in 2018. Nine video works by the British artist Hilary Lloyd were installed in the centre of the auditorium. Made between 2008-2017, they muse on natural and constructed worlds; the hyper-corporeal. ‘I wanted something to relate to this childlike dreamstate that I think we’re all in, this non-reality. The idea of the screen, the look,’ Anderson said.
Sound bite: Standouts were the textiles, made using a global network of craftspeople. Caftans were offered in hand-embroidered red and white cotton made in Bangladesh to hand-dyed and woven indigo cloth created by artisans in Burkina Faso. ‘I wanted to look back to the era when the brand became something in the 1970s. With the success of Paula’s Ibiza shop, there is this something of cotton meeting linen. As much as this is fashion, it’s rooted in the brand’s heritage. I feel like we’ve enhanced the past but made it for the future.’
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The return of the bullhead: the watch design that refuses to conformLittle known outside of watch circles, but enthusiastically collected within them, bullhead watches have always been divisive. Identified by the crown at 12 o’clock, it made design sense – no digging into the wrist, allowing easier function as a stopwatch - but remains a speciality. But now, the bullhead is back
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Tour Peridot, Hong Kong’s hypnotic new barLocated on the 38th floor of The Henderson, Studio Paolo Ferrari’s latest project is a study in ‘light, refraction, and intimacy’
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Lighting designer Andi Watson on creating Mitski’s sculptural stage for 'The Land'In Mitski’s live show and new concert film, a single beam of light becomes her dance partner. Lighting designer Andi Watson discusses turning shadow, movement and restraint into the architecture of feeling
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Inside Roger Vivier’s opulent new Paris HQ and archive, a haven for shoe loversWallpaper* takes a tour of ‘Maison Vivier’, an 18th-century hôtel particulier that houses the French shoemaker’s headquarters, studio and archive – an extraordinary collection of over 1,000 pairs of shoes
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The key takeaways from the S/S 2026 shows: freedom, colour and romance define fashion’s new chapterWe unpack the trends and takeaways from the S/S 2026 season, which saw fashion embrace a fresh start with free-spirited collections and a bold exploration of colour and form
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The independent designers you might have missed from fashion month S/S 2026Amid a tidal wave of big-house debuts, we take you through the independent displays that may have slipped through the cracks – from beautiful imagery to bookshop takeovers, museum displays and moves across the pond
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From wearable skincare to scented runways, unpacking the unconventional beauty moments of fashion month S/S 2026The S/S 2026 season featured everything from probiotic-lined athleisure to fragranced runways – and those Maison Margiela mouthguards
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Pierpaolo Piccioli makes Balenciaga debut ‘from a place of love and connection’Attended by Anne Hathaway and Meghan Markle, the ex-Valentino designer’s first runway display for Balenciaga took place within Kering’s Paris headquarters
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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez make a bold start at Loewe, inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s ‘elemental colours’The former Proenza Schouler designers presented their debut collection for Loewe this morning, channelling ‘clarity and colour, sensual physicality, and sunniness’
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‘Change is inevitable’: Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior womenswear collection recodes the house’s archiveAn audacious collection from the Northern Irish designer, presented in Paris this afternoon, saw him reconsider the Dior archive in his unwaveringly inventive style
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Acne Studios’ cigar salon runway set is decorated with Pacifico Silano’s homoerotic ‘objects of desire’Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano breaks down his collaboration with Acne Studios, seeing his work – which zooms in on 1970s and 1980s gay erotica – backdrop the brand’s S/S 2026 show today in Paris
