Emporio Armani S/S 2018
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Mood board: The show was billed as ‘a dialogue with Japan of an other era’. The collection unfolded into a series of fluid, tailored pieces and lavish hakama-style trousers in traditional suiting and silks. Armani sent out groupings of models each in a specific style and naturally there was a lot of navy, grey and well cut suiting. Standout were the more directional long-line tailored pieces with zipped vents at the back worn underneath three-button suit jackets. The trousers for S/S 2018 had wide single pleats at the front and were cut at the ankle.
Finishing touches: Milan loves a Millennial. Ahead of Dolce & Gabbana’s lengthy show with its 106 influencer models, Emporio Armani ended its show with the unveiling of a new smart-watch line, dubbed ‘Connected’ and fronted by the singer Shawn Mendes. For the whole weekend, thousands of teenage girls have caused traffic jams outside the Armani hotel on Via Alessandro Manzoni to steal a selfie with the Canadian megastar. Mendes appears in a video to promote the watch, which was screened at the end of the S/S 2018 catwalk show. In it, he plays his hit song Mercy via his smartwatch, dancing as electronic waves rush through a cityscape. Armani described Mendes as ‘a singer of true talent who touches the hearts of his fans.’ One who is sure to introduce Armani Connected to his millions of devotees.
Best in show: Floral silk blousons and jacquards, koi carp intarsia sweaters and leather lace-work jackets in red created a happy marriage between Japanese iconography and Armani codes. Before Mendes’ appearance, seven models walked out in a series of Aikido-style uniforms in floral jacquard, led by a high-kicking martial arts performer.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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