Mood board: It’s hard to imagine that once upon a time Ibiza was a quiet port. The Balearic island at dusk was one of Anderson’s starting points for the season and the accompanying imagery imagines the adventure of two young characters isolated at sea. The collection explores the textural and the tactile. Pinstripe trousers in light ecru cotton are gathered up around the ankle as if half soaked from the salty sea; zip up blousons in toweling, while knitwear and denim are dipped in gold.
Finishing touches: The focus on craft was seen across the collection. Dyed wool shirts were patched using the Japanese technique of boro – an ancient art of repairing clothes with scraps of fabric, first developed in the 17th century. Organic garment-dyed linen, terrycloth and silk are paired with gold dipped seaweed and chord necklaces; accessories of natural driftwood and cork. Key for the season are two bags, each with a figurative painting from the archive of Spanish artist Ouka Leele printed onto them.
Scene setting: Anderson’s womenswear offering for the Spanish house is always presented with the va-va-voom of the runway. Menswear is exhibited at Loewe’s showroom at Place Saint Sulpice in Paris – the immersive installations designed by M/M Paris have become a highlight of the seasonal schedule. For S/S it was darkly atmospheric, evoking a Mediterranean port at sundown; a photograph of a golden sunset covered the walls, while a black glazed tile floor gave the impression of walking through moonlit waters.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
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