Mood board: Craig Green kicked off the LCM S/S 2017 schedule with a free-spirited, even romantic, unfurling of everyday uniforms – be they those of a handkerchief-swaddled Scout squad, a professional’s two-piece or the quilted garb of his more familiar martial artist. Green began with hybrid suiting, deconstructing traditional grey wool pinstripes by splicing and then re-stapling linear panels back together with terracotta hued inserts. As his nomad tailoring flapped down the runway, the desert breeze blew in patchworked judo jackets and wide-legged pants (again with numerous splits, for which some were laced a little of the way, adding a street element reminiscent of Adidas’ 1990s press studded track pant), which were quilted from Moorish, hand-blocked prints inspired by Moroccan bed sheets that also looked a little Batik.
Best in show: The unlacing continued with Green’s recalibration of the trench. His cotton drill, part anorak, part coat in hues of brick brown and camel channeled Yves Saint Laurent’s Veruschka dress albeit under the influence of a more utilitarian desert punk riff. Here tabs and lacings (as if borrowed from a ship’s sail) took over from last season’s trailing ties. They also held the gender neutral line and will be sure to infiltrate the wardrobes of his female fans too.
Team work: Green is still yet to cash his £150,000 check from his May BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund win, but he’s already stepped up the production values bringing in music maestro Frederic Sanchez for S/S 2017. Together the pair lulled us into awe with organ music that possessed an eerie twilight brio.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Out of office: The Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekFar from slowing down for the festive season, the Wallpaper* team is in full swing, hopping from events to openings this week. But when your job is chasing the pulse of culture, work can feel like play – and we also had time for some festive cocktails and cinematic releases
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The Barbican is undergoing a huge revamp. Here’s what we knowThe Barbican Centre is set to close in June 2028 for a year as part of a huge restoration plan to future-proof the brutalist Grade II-listed site
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A former agricultural building is transformed into a minimal rural home by Bindloss DawesZero-carbon design meets adaptive re-use in the Tractor Shed, a stripped-back house in a country village by Somerset architects Bindloss Dawes
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‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
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‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
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Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
