Hermès S/S 2016

Mood board: While the maison has never relied on muses or themes, its longtime menswear designer Véronique Nichanian applied a markedly livelier sensibility to the collection’s inherent luxury this season. A goatskin blouson panelled in a geometric motif gave way to a sharply tailored striped jacquard jacket overlaid with flowers. To the expected spectrum of neutrals (navy, chalk, black and white), she freshly paired mint with brick; and then, for even more colour interest, folded in strong shades of tomato and athletic blue. A close look at the knitwear revealed intricate patterning, from H-shaped ribbing to open work zigzags. And let’s not leave out the rubberised lambskin.
Finishing touches: A collection from Hermès is not complete without the presentation of a few beautiful bags. This season, the cleverly named 'Cabacity' in calfskin seemed roomy enough to accommodate day trip needs. Carried as a tote or swung over the shoulder, it appeared in velvety tan and black; but most distinctive of all was the vibrant bamboo green. A backpack in inky blue bullskin played into the collection’s younger-leaning spirit, although in truth, it was as ageless as it was timeless.
Best in show: This isn’t the first season that Hermès has shown a suede sweatpant but its reappearance attests to its appeal. Add the striped 'sweatshirt' in water snake and you’ve achieved a new benchmark in luxe leisurewear. Those who turn their nose up at Birkenstocks might be persuaded by these versions, their double-straps more flattering on the foot. A suede t-shirt silkscreened with a faded tattoo-floral is a guaranteed stylist’s pick, if not a collector piece. Bonus points go to show's music maestros for dropping Fat White Family's raunchy tune, Touch the Leather, into the mix.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
A new Athens gallery is a celebration of old and new, a stone's throw from the Acropolis
New Athens gallery Melas Martinos by Local Local is a contemporary art space, a stone's throw from the Acropolis, in the Greek capital's Monastiraki neighbourhood
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: live updates from the Wallpaper* team
From 7-9 July, Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 arrives in Paris. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
Boundaries between art and life dissolve in Katherine Hubbard's intimate documentation of her mother's illness
In 'The Great Room', Katherine Hubbard merges caregiving for her mother with an unflinching documentary of the process