Hermès S/S 2016

Mood board: While the maison has never relied on muses or themes, its longtime menswear designer Véronique Nichanian applied a markedly livelier sensibility to the collection’s inherent luxury this season. A goatskin blouson panelled in a geometric motif gave way to a sharply tailored striped jacquard jacket overlaid with flowers. To the expected spectrum of neutrals (navy, chalk, black and white), she freshly paired mint with brick; and then, for even more colour interest, folded in strong shades of tomato and athletic blue. A close look at the knitwear revealed intricate patterning, from H-shaped ribbing to open work zigzags. And let’s not leave out the rubberised lambskin.

Finishing touches: A collection from Hermès is not complete without the presentation of a few beautiful bags. This season, the cleverly named 'Cabacity' in calfskin seemed roomy enough to accommodate day trip needs. Carried as a tote or swung over the shoulder, it appeared in velvety tan and black; but most distinctive of all was the vibrant bamboo green. A backpack in inky blue bullskin played into the collection’s younger-leaning spirit, although in truth, it was as ageless as it was timeless.

Best in show: This isn’t the first season that Hermès has shown a suede sweatpant but its reappearance attests to its appeal. Add the striped 'sweatshirt' in water snake and you’ve achieved a new benchmark in luxe leisurewear. Those who turn their nose up at Birkenstocks might be persuaded by these versions, their double-straps more flattering on the foot. A suede t-shirt silkscreened with a faded tattoo-floral is a guaranteed stylist’s pick, if not a collector piece. Bonus points go to show's music maestros for dropping Fat White Family's raunchy tune, Touch the Leather, into the mix.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans