Junya Watanabe S/S 2015
Mr Watanabe does nothing by half. His shows are penetrating studies, each with an obsessive singularity, and Spring's menswear is about the workers of Japanese folklore. Lacquered topknots and fierce painted eyebrows cleared any doubts, with tinges of sumo-style from the first denim collage, through a patchwork frenzy, to the final reds from the land of the rising sun, with the designer's hallmark trim tailoring and utility designs softened in a washed and shredded fabric collage. Signifiers of the kimono abounded, with blown-up signage and wave graphics paneled into Junya's hooded anoraks and rockabilly denim - the latter printed at times in a Spirograph of oriental florals. Breaking the denim blues with a passage of washi paper-coloured looks, Watanabe stretched a diverse and jubilant collection from a theme so close to home.
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