Mood board: ‘The meaning of romanticism today is different,’ the notes to Pierpaolo Piccioli’s A/W 20 menswear show began. His deference for opulence and glamour, best seen in his beautiful womenswear couture shows, spilled into his menswear offering too. There has been a consistent reassessment of masculinity in the past few days of the new decade. Piccioli wanted to revive a certain romanticism through menswear cut. The look was fluid, suiting open at the sides, the line languid and quiet.
Finishing touches: The collection focused on tailoring as, the notes suggested, ‘masculine metaphors’. In Milan, designers seemed obsessed with scrubbing out the dictums of gendered fashion, several posing the question: ‘what makes a man today?’ At Zenga it was about an opening of discussion and emotion; at Ferragamo it was in the adaptability of the clothes – the autonomy of the wearer. At Valentino the question inspired a traditional and romantic respectability. The show started with black and moved into orange, grey, berry – colours derived from flora. A fluid purple blazer showed flashes of lime green shirting underneath. Flowers ran across the back of shoulders.
Team work: The floral motifs printed, appliquéd and knitted onto the clothes were taken from the archives of photographers Inez Van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The words of French artist Mélanie Matranga, inspired by her fabric haikus, were magnified all over: NEED NEED featured on a V-neck tabard, BAD LOVER on the front of a double-breasted jacket and collaged onto washed denim suiting. The British artist FKA Twigs sang live.
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This surreal new seafood restaurant in LA is the stuff of mermaid's dreamsAt Cento Raw Bar, delectable fare is complemented by playful, oceanic interiors by Brandon Miradi
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What’s new in the wearable world of smart glasses, and extended and augmented realityAre you ready for AR? Meta, Google, Snap and more are gearing up to compete with Apple and deliver frames-based communications devices – complete with AI integration
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Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria AngelinaA Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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Inside the new Fondazione Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti in Rome, which opens with an ode to ‘Valentino Red’Wallpaper* gets a private tour of the new Roman institution, PM23, which opens with an exhibition of ‘dialogues’ between Valentino Garavani’s designs and a catalogue of red-hued contemporary art
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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Inside Valentino’s intimate New York ‘listening room’, designed with TerraformaUniting with Italian collective Terraforma, Valentino continues the phenomenon of the ‘listening room’ with L’Atelier Sonore, a plush new space in its Madison Avenue store complete with an eclectic sonic programme for vinyl aficionados
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
