Dior A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Men’s
Mood board: The late British fashion iconoclast Judy Blame nurtured a generation of artists and designers working in the late 1980s and 1990s and created much of the look now deemed to define that period. In 2005, talking to The New York Times he said of his penchant for bricolage: ‘When we haven't got the money, we have to use our imagination. I used to go and scavenge around the River Thames. I didn't have any fear about using something that wasn't classic jewellery material.’ Kim Jones looked to Blame’s legacy for A/W 20. ‘This show is dedicated to the memory of Judy Blame, a close friend and pioneer in the world of fashion, whose love of couture was an inspiration to us all,’ he said. The Dior logo was pierced with a safety pin. The attitude: neo-punk-opulence. Couture remixed and remastered.
Best in show: The Dior salon posture was there in the long gloves, sleeves pushed up above the elbow. Dior’s archives exude a timeless magic that has endured and exists as a treasure trove of inspiration. Its contents are a byword for elegance. Jones pushed the archival deference in the moiré effects of silk and placement of embroidery. Arabesque motifs and paisley patterns were inspired by the clothes made by Marc Bohan for the house during his 30-year tenure. The look was extravagant and dramatic; longer shirts, giant silk rosettes. Bricolage safety pin necklaces and trimmings across the collection were in direct homage to Blame.
Finishing touches: The iconic Gazette print that Blame created for John Galliano is reissued. Throughout the collection was the original toile de jouy motif that decorated Christian Dior’s first boutique – called “colifichets” – and a new “toile de judy” designed in collaboration with the trust Judy Blame Foundation. Berets by Stephen Jones paid tribute to Parisian culture and the pioneering Buffalo movement of the 1980s – of which Blame was a pivotal figure.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
The wait is over: Matthieu Blazy is Chanel’s new creative director
Matthieu Blazy has been appointed as the new artistic director at Chanel, after a critically lauded and commercially successful tenure as creative director of Bottega Veneta
By Jack Moss Published
-
Alaïa’s secret new London café and bookstore is inspired by the art of hosting
Housed on the third floor of Alaïa’s London flagship, the intimate space – inspired by Azzedine Alaïa’s famed hospitality – includes a Violet Cakes bakery and a bookstore by Claire de Rouen
By Jack Moss Published
-
Is it really possible to stage a Shakespeare play inside the game Grand Theft Auto?
Grand Theft Hamlet, a documentary debut written and directed by Pinny Grylls and Sam Crane, is about two out-of-work actors attempting to mount a full production of William Shakespeare’s Hamlet, inside the violent world of Grand Theft Auto, shot entirely in game
By Billie Walker Published
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spin
From a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
By Jack Moss Published
-
‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for Alaïa
As creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 show
As guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 show
Dior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to Hermès
In this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
By Laura Hawkins Last updated