Mood board: The words ‘MELTING POT’, swirling across the front of a T-shirt, set the mood for Sacai’s A/W 2019 collection. Chitose Abe’s hybridised style has influenced the bricolage attitude seen in many of the collections. A bringing together of the sporty and the suit is a common trick but Abe did it with playful aplomb. Military pieces were studied and peeled apart, formal sleeves were grown onto sportswear. A pale denim jacket morphed into a padded gilet; the heaviness of a wool coat was spliced with a more fluid trench. At Junya Watanabe, the logo for a Milanese pizzeria was printed onto a T-shirt – here, Abe borrowed the iconic green neon sign of London’s renowned Bar Italia and displayed it on the front of a hooded sweat shirt. Italian eateries are having a moment.
Best in show: The opening felt wool pieces had a sculptural sharpness bellied by their flat textile. Biker jacket buckles and belt loops were added onto formal outerwear. Classic flannel pants were blended with performance leggings. Jackets were half faux fur and half fleece. Technical suits in papery nylon had crunch and a soft jersey rib cuff at the ankle. A heavy knit jumper carried a giant cable breaking loose from its pattern, snaking around the neck. Cultural melting pots were mined for their multiplicity, evoking an infectious freedom of being. A waffle knit had a green strip that zipped off around the chest – left unfurled it revealed a bare, upper arm. The skin offered a glimpse of a body cocooned.
Team work: The trimmings of city life were redone, Sacai style. Acetate eyewear had aviator lenses applied directly on top of the frame, made in collaboration with Japanese eyewear brand Native Sons. Custom beaded wireless earphones created with Beats by Dr. Dre. took on the look of trippy, hippie necklaces. The ongoing cult partnership with Nike resulted in crossbreed LDV/Daybreak and Blazer/Dunk styles. Some had fur patches laced down on the top or an extended sole, jutting out from the back.
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The return of Genghis Cohen: LA’s cult Chinese diner lives onThe 1980s Chinese-American landmark returns with red booths, neon nostalgia, and a fresh dose of Hollywood eccentricity
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A monumental exhibition of French design revives the spirit of art deco for contemporary timesThe Galerie des Gobelins hosts the inaugural Salon des Nouveaux Ensembliers, a contemporary movement inspired by art deco’s grand traditions
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Sotheby’s is auctioning Mercedes Gleitze’s Channel-crossing RolexThe historic Rolex that started the sport-watch synergy is going under the hammer, amidst a contemporary boom in sporty-elegant timepieces
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Inside Roger Vivier’s opulent new Paris HQ and archive, a haven for shoe loversWallpaper* takes a tour of ‘Maison Vivier’, an 18th-century hôtel particulier that houses the French shoemaker’s headquarters, studio and archive – an extraordinary collection of over 1,000 pairs of shoes
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The key takeaways from the S/S 2026 shows: freedom, colour and romance define fashion’s new chapterWe unpack the trends and takeaways from the S/S 2026 season, which saw fashion embrace a fresh start with free-spirited collections and a bold exploration of colour and form
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The independent designers you might have missed from fashion month S/S 2026Amid a tidal wave of big-house debuts, we take you through the independent displays that may have slipped through the cracks – from beautiful imagery to bookshop takeovers, museum displays and moves across the pond
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From wearable skincare to scented runways, unpacking the unconventional beauty moments of fashion month S/S 2026The S/S 2026 season featured everything from probiotic-lined athleisure to fragranced runways – and those Maison Margiela mouthguards
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Pierpaolo Piccioli makes Balenciaga debut ‘from a place of love and connection’Attended by Anne Hathaway and Meghan Markle, the ex-Valentino designer’s first runway display for Balenciaga took place within Kering’s Paris headquarters
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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez make a bold start at Loewe, inspired by Ellsworth Kelly’s ‘elemental colours’The former Proenza Schouler designers presented their debut collection for Loewe this morning, channelling ‘clarity and colour, sensual physicality, and sunniness’
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‘Change is inevitable’: Jonathan Anderson’s first Dior womenswear collection recodes the house’s archiveAn audacious collection from the Northern Irish designer, presented in Paris this afternoon, saw him reconsider the Dior archive in his unwaveringly inventive style
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Acne Studios’ cigar salon runway set is decorated with Pacifico Silano’s homoerotic ‘objects of desire’Brooklyn-based artist Pacifico Silano breaks down his collaboration with Acne Studios, seeing his work – which zooms in on 1970s and 1980s gay erotica – backdrop the brand’s S/S 2026 show today in Paris
