Marni A/W 2017
Creative director Francesco Risso debuts his colourful and off-kilter collection for the Milanese house
Mood board: Francesco Risso, former womenswear designer at Prada, has just been handed the creative director reins at Marni. It's a big upgrade for the Milan-based Risso who now will not only oversee men’s and womenswear collections but also the creative stewardship for the entire brand. Risso showed he has just the right chops with his debut men’s show, where he maintained the beloved brand's signature quirk while also ruffling a few feathers with the use of scribbles, stripes, messy fur, and undisciplined brushstrokes on his off-kilter but still oddly wearable line up.
Best in show: Risso's preferred silhouette of boys lost in big clothes was one he favours himself and one that looks just right. Oversized flooded pants came cinched at the waist with nubby beautifully knit sweaters. Also notable were the plaid numbers, crafted into woven wool coats and shirts or patchworked into an intarsia checkerboard of rich fur.
Finishing touches: The models wore dainty, delicate crossbody purses covered in a thicket of fur, as well as huge colourful striped furry hats, giving the vague effect of Davy Crockett meeting Cat in the Hat at a rave. It worked. The shoes, meanwhile, were all clunky soft -ole trainers, perfect for creeping around the streets.