Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver’s Lanvin Homme show was a survey of the meticulous codes he has penned for the line since arriving at the house ten years ago. The focus was on the the craft of making. The designer has spoken before about the challenge in presenting artisanal know-how to a digital audience; the collection’s exposed basting stitches, faux patchwork overdyes and inside-out jacket sleeves were absolutely high in their resolution.
Finishing touches: A plaited leather net shopper in black was standout and referenced in a series of vests worn over shirts and under jackets. The knotting was there too in a series of embroidered boxy shirts. As an ode to the label’s focus on the artisanal, the label’s iconic leather sneaker reappeared for the season in a range of colours, each totally unique and spray-painted by hand.
Best in show: Good luxury menswear often has a kind of nonchalant elegance; here the clothes with roomy volumes such as the wide, long crotch trousers and wool cardigans lined with printed silk were lavish and loose. A waist length shearling jacket with wool fringing at the shoulder seams was crafty, sexy, cool.