Mood board: Paula Gerbase may have sighted the mundane details of the ‘every day’ as inspiration for her LC:M menswear debut, but the result was anything but humdrum. Having cut her teeth on Savile Row, Gerbase has long been a fan of reductionist tailoring. However, it was the purity and discipline of her A/W 2016 menswear offering – from exquisite waffle weave tailoring to shearling coats fastened with interlaced buttons – that gave us a seriously stellar LC:M start.
Scene setting: Gerbase’s collections have always leaned towards an architectural oeuvre so her decision to show at the under-utilised (as far as fashion venues go away) Royal Institute of British Architecture was a spark of genius as bright as the oversized glowing globes that lit her runway.
Best in show: Just as we've come to expect from her 1205 womenswear, Gerbase’s microscopic gaze was once again dutifully focused on the finer details. The Brazilian-born Saint Martin’s grad’s fascination with creating custom-designed cloths (this season featherlight Nylons and a jersey-like twist on chord) was only surpassed by her penchant for unseen trimmings, which she concealed within garments so as to be only apparent to the wearer. Here, her subtly quilted suiting was just as interesting as the casual ease of a classic fisherman’s jumper worn with tweed ‘tracksuit’ pants.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Remembering Frank Gehry, a titan of architecture and a brilliant human beingLong-time Wallpaper* contributor Michael Webb reflects on the legacy of the Los Angeles architect, who died today at age 96
-
Lexus finally confirms the name of its all-electric LFA Concept supercarStill designated a design study, the Lexus LFA Concept should be the successor to the most unlikely of all 20th-century supercars
-
King of cashmere Brunello Cucinelli on his new biographical docu-drama: ‘This is my testimony’Directed by Cinema Paradiso’s Giuseppe Tornatore, ‘Brunello: the Gracious Visionary’ premiered in cinematic fashion at Rome’s Cinecittà studios last night, charting the meteoric rise of the deep-thinking Italian designer
-
‘Architect of glamour’ Antony Price makes a high-voltage return to the runway with 16ArlingtonFeaturing a runway debut from Lily Allen, the show saw legendary designer Antony Price – best known for outfitting Roxy Music in the 1980s – unite with 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on the sensual after-dark collection
-
‘Dirty Looks’ at the Barbican explores how fashion designers have found beauty in dirt and decayFrom garments buried in River Thames mud to those torn, creased and stained, ‘Dirty Looks’ is a testament to how ‘creativity and new artistic practices can come out of decay’, its curators tell Dal Chodha
-
Tyler Mitchell’s London show explores the figure of the Black Dandy, ‘imagining what else masculinity could look like’Originally part of a visual essay to accompany the Met’s ‘Superfine’ 2025 Costume Institute exhibition, ‘Portrait of the Modern Dandy’ goes on display at Gagosian Burlington Arcade in London this week
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
