Scene setting: Designers Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri tapped relatively unknown Melbourne artist Esther Stewart to design a sprawling carpet that stretched through the myriad salons of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in geometric triangulated patterns, like a giant backgammon board. The vivid grassy green, Prussian blue and Bordeaux tones returned paneled across leather anoraks and felt blazers, as did the angular shapes (slashed into greyscale flannel).
Mood board: The balance of a precise sartorial wardrobe with opulent, directional daywear has become Valentino's menswear forte, a formula they evolved here into finite sections inspired not only by Stewart's paintings, but the sweeping Sixties movements of Futurism and Cubism. It translated in two major ways; both applied as colourblocking across rugged, scuba-zipped outerwear, and in the trim suiting silhouette that closed the show in precious 4-leaf clover jacquards.
Best in show: From afar, the delicate embellishment across a pair of pale jackets (a topcoat and a bomber) was almost Native American, resplendent in linear red and blue embroidery. A navy wool bomber tracked with inlaid planets and star charts was a celestial nod to the women's Pre-Fall collection; a welcome esoteric touch amongst the strict graphic forms.
-
Remembering Christopher Charles Benninger (1942-2024)Architect Christopher Charles Benninger has died in Pune, India, at the age of 82; we honour and reflect on his passing
-
Chanel shows its sporting colours with a bold high jewellery collectionChanel's high jewellery collection is inspired by its founder’s athletic aesthetic
-
Sarah Solis’ first furniture collection is an homage to art deco‘Is it weird to call furniture sexy?’ Los Angeles-based designer Sarah Solis discusses her debut furniture line and new brand and store, Galerie Solis
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Valentino’s theatrical new exhibition celebrates the house founder’s 90th birthdayAt Teatro Sociale di Voghera, a new exhibition marks seminal designer Valentino Garavani’s 90th birthday, collating pieces from his time at the helm with ‘Valentino red’ taking centre stage
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Valentino’s new Beijing exhibition explores the role of fashion‘Re-Signify Part Two’ juxtaposes items from the Valentino archive and the work of contemporary artists such as Cao Fei, Xu Zhen, and Nick Knight
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Valentino Des Atelier Haute Couture sees fashion and art collideSeventeen contemporary artists enter a dynamic dialogue around dressing to create Valentino’s A/W 2021 Des Ateliers Haute Couture collection
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
