Mood board: Creative director Alber Elbaz may have joined the finale bow, but it’s the sharp and conscientious design vocabulary of Lucas Ossendrijver that has transformed Lanvin’s menswear into an innovative signifier of introverted luxury. The urban dandyism that marked this collection was stirred with undertones of punk bohemia, as blousons and coats were artfully layered (suede on houndstooth, python on Prince of Wales) and long fringed scarves streamed out below greatcoats in stiff wool or tufted fur.
Best in show: Ossendrijver has been exploring ways of masculine embellishment of late that have broken the flat polish of his outerwear with a pleasing 'glitch' effect. The season’s silk and leather lacing technique gave short blousons, a bomber and wool scarf all a hand-touched, authentic effect.
Team work: The urgent beats of Science & Industry, a new track by Manchester dubstep artist Andy Stott, echoed through the ornate Beaux Arts atrium bouncing off its elegant statues and our Sunday morning eardrums for an ominous second wakeup call.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
