Berluti A/W 2015

Mood board: Alessandro Sartori’s once intimate Berluti showings have relaxed and evolved to encompass a wardrobe far beyond the bespoke suit, with luxuries made for living in morning to night. Autumn’s palette declined previous monochromatic studies with washes of evergreen wool, steely grey nubuck and even the palest ice pink shearling. From daytime duffels to a finale of shot silk tailcoats, the house enforced its message as a one-stop shop for the high-flying 21st century gentleman.

Scene Setting: A mirrored catwalk trailed from the porticos of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in a silvery stream, adding a futuristic touch to the classical venue that was otherwise absent in the collection. The label’s signature burnished brogues were suspended from clouds of white helium balloons, hung from the grand staircase.

Best in show: The welcome lightness of unstructured trench coats allowed Berluti’s exquisite leathers a new sense of movement, with glazed white calfskin and a mushroom-coloured suede version stealing the show.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans