Following the game-changing theatrics of his Spring 2014 show, where American 'stepper' troops and Estonian black metal rockers took centre stage, Rick Owens chose the classical elegance of the Palais Chaillot to show the Autumn menswear show he labelled 'Moody'. The dominant silhouette was a wide onesie, cut from stiff gazar or cowhide, dropping from the shoulder into baggy shorts zipped across the behind and worn with lace-up leather galoshes. Calling out an ode to 'gang authority, cop authority and nun authority', Owens wrapped heads in filmy doo-rag 'wimples' and cut luxe 'swat' vests in pocketed silk and leather, enriching his seminal palette of black and bone with a deep rust brown. A-line trenches cut in bubbly jacquard and pillowy, knotted neck scarves furthered the exploration of giant proportions, hinting at a futuristic formality.
Photography: Anna Stokland/Jason Lloyd-Evans
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