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Editor’s picks from Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015: womenswear collections

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Miu Miu: We were quite taken by the curves of the Palais d'Iena's main staircase, which sweeps in two separate directions

(Image credit: TBC)

By Jack Moss

last updated 22 July 2022

in Features

Jewelry on a prosthetic hand — **Delfina Delettrez:** 'Handroid' is the jeweller's latest fine jewellery collection that explores movement and anatomy, as precious metals follow the natural kinetics of the hand. We could certainly do with an extra pair of these robotic ones in the office

Colorful handbags and shoes on a wooden installation — **Pierre Hardy:** Celebrating his brand's 15th anniversary Pierre Hardy worked with three separate colour palettes of primary hues, pastels and monochromatics for spring

Geometric shaped heels — **Pierre Hardy:** The designer's signature Cubist print reinvented as a geometric heel - putting feet on a pedestal

Mannequin head and body sitting at a decorated table — **Lanvin:** We popped by for 'dinner' at Lanvin's 'I Love You' book signing. Nice bunch

Models at Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015: womenswear collections — **Iris van Herpen:** The 'Magnetic Motion' collection presented high above Paris' Centre Pompidou was inspired by the designer's visit to CERN (the European Organisation for Nuclear Research) and the Large Hadron Collider magnetic field, in addition to the works of Canadian architect Philip Beesley and Dutch artist Jolan van de Wiel whom Van Herpen collaborated with. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Models wearing three-dimensional structures — **Iris van Herpen:** Laser cutting and injection moulding resulted in the show's intricate three-dimensional structures. This 3D-printed transparent crystal dress was the result of the designer's collaboration with Niccolò Casas. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Top view of a combined sewer system — **Chanel:** The French house's fake avenue set came complete with seven-storey buildings, sidewalks, puddles and real pot holes

Spring APC presentation with models wearing jean clothing — **APC:** Founder Jean Touitou philosophised the relationship between society and fashion at his spring APC presentation. The history of denim and the idiosyncrasies of our search for the best black were topics of discussion

**Rahul Mishra:** A close-up of Indian designer Rahul Mishra's winning designs for Woolmark. Every single detail is 100 percent wool and hand made in India

Blood and roses spring collection clothing — **Comme des Garçons:** In the showroom with Rei Kawakubo's blood and roses spring collection

Shapes for spring with a wildly creative patchwork collection — **Junya Watanabe:** The designer made shapes for spring with a wildly creative patchwork collection

Installation of a coat collection — **Toogood:** Furniture Designer Faye Toogood and her fashion pattern-cutting sister Erica delivered their second workwear inspired coat collection in a small pop up shop in the Marais that was draped with indigo dyed linen. The collection has now grown to 18 styles, all based on different craft trades, nine of which the sisters transformed into puppets as their window display.

Models wearing Stripes and sequin clothing — **Sonia Rykiel:** Stripes and sequins were the order of the day for ex-Vuitton designer Julie de Libran's Rykiel debut.

Installation inside a Paris skate rink — **Kenzo:** Set designer Etienne Russo scores again with his installation inside a Paris skate rink

Installation of shoes and accessories — **Roger Vivier:** The founder's 1967 African mask collection inspired modern day creative director Bruno Frisoni's latest collection for the French accessories brand

**Stella McCartney:** The Brit's show venue at the Paris Opera House never fails to impress

Models wearing dungarees and two-tone leather halter — **Guy Laroche:** Dungarees and two-tone leather halter dresses do day-to-night dressing at Laroche

White and pink blazer on mannequins — **Pallas:** The masters of the 'Le Smoking' introduced white and fuchsia for S/S 2015

Interior of Paris' enormous Grand Palais — **Petit Palais:** Many fashion shows take place inside Paris' enormous Grand Palais, but the Petit Palais situated next door is worth a visit too

Dresses on mannequins — **Maje:** At Maje we were offered a lesson in French dressing from the sophisticated madames of the 1st, to the relaxed bohemian chic of the rive gauche

Models wearing abstract curved form clothing — **Ellery:** Australian designer Kym Ellery looked to the abstract curved forms of Alsatian artist Jean Arp as her starting point for spring

Models wearing yellow and black outfits — **Jean Paul Gaultier:** A fond farewell to the French icon who showed his last ready-to-wear collection this season - going forward he will concentrate on his couture and fragrance businesses. No doubt Gaultier's effervescent creativity will be sorely missed from this schedule.

Curtain come down on Gaulter's prêt-à-porter career — 3811542785001

**Jean Paul Gaultier:** Watch the curtain come down on Gaulter's prêt-à-porter career in our finale film

**Acne Studios:** A quick art stop at Sheila Hicks Baoli's installation in the belly of Paris' Palais de Tokyo, site of the Acne show

X-rated canapé platter at Acne Studios — **Acne Studios:** The X-rated canapé platter at Acne certainly spiced up the pre-show scene

German accessories brand hanbags

Tsatsas: Established by Esther Schulze-Tsatsas and Dimitrios Tsatsas in 2012, this German accessories brand is all about precision proportions and interesting angles

(Image credit: TBC)

Luggage and shoes installation — **Loewe:** JW Anderson's first womenswear collection for Loewe continued the house's heritage of exquisite leather craftsmanship and innovation

Shoe installation on concrete blocks — **Loewe:** Our studio visit uncovered all manner of leather espadrilles

Colorful pair of heels — **Aquazzura:** Cha Cha Cha! Brazilian born, Florence-based designer Edgardo Osorio throws some hometown exuberance into his spring Aquazzura collection

Mirrored face of the Louvre — **Christian Dior:** Raf Simons' show for Dior took traditional codes of the 18th century and twisted them into something new - just like his mirrored face of the Louvre

Micro strips of coloured crocodile graphic, rainbow hued handbag — **Nancy Gonzalez:** Micro strips of coloured crocodile were woven together to create graphic, rainbow hued handbags at Nancy Gonzalez

Illustration of a striking backdrop to present a latest shoe offering — **Nicholas Kirkwood:** 1960s and 1970s Japanese poster art by graphic designer and illustrator Tadanori Yokoo formed the striking backdrop to Nicholas Kirkwood's latest shoe offering

Woven toile de cuir leather handbag — **Delvaux:** The new collection from French leather goods house Delvaux was inspired by an escape to Normandy. Intriguing textures were featured throughout, including on the structured 'Brilliant' bag that comes in a supple croc and woven toile de cuir leather

Jewelry that comes with its own ear stand and kid gloves — **Otzar:** Former fashion editor Delphine Hervieu has launched a new jewellery label with Philippe Airaud. Entitled Otzar ('treasure' in Hebrew), the line features seven one-of-a-kind ear cuffs with semi-precious stones. The prices are steep - between €15,000 - €50,000, but each design is a numbered piece that comes with its own ear stand and kid gloves designed by Paris' Maison Fabre

Woman wearing a beach-ready collection — **Ç x Façonnable:** A beach-ready collection by Mira Mikati takes us from California to surfing in Hawaii

Models wearing white and black clothing — **Zadig & Voltaire:** Creative director Cecilia Bonstrom dressed up the interiors of Paris' Ecole Militaire with an eye-popping presentation that snaked through various rooms.

Models in front of a colorful backdrop — **Zadig & Voltaire:** Each mise-en-scene featured a core colour group - from hot yellow and pink to cool turquoise and black

Models wearing graphic Mondrian styled clothing — **Balmain:** There was not a square to spare at Balmain for spring, as Olivier Rousteing delivered a graphic Mondrian moment.

Models on the runway wearing dresses, bombers and pointed collar car coats — **Carven:** This season Carven turned Japanese with a late 1960s, early 1970s spin as mini dresses, bombers and pointed collar car coats were spliced with zips and python skin, while tees sported Kanji characters

Elegant buffalo leather bags and pochettes — **Lancel:** The accessory label has taken a leap forward for spring with its new Charlie line of elegant buffalo leather bags and pochettes

Models in virginal white sheath dresses — **Rochas:** Virginal white sheaths and a capitalised 'R' motif branded Alessandro Dell'Acqua's spring show.

The shadows of models against a purple wall — **Vionnet:** Projected, dancing shadows followed Vionnet's models down creative director Goga Ashkenazi's curvilinear runway - with some acting up along the way by stretching a leg or swinging a bag as they sashayed

Laser-cut leather sandals on grass — **Hermès:** Pierre Hardy was inspired by Hermès' 'Balcon du Guadalquivir' porcelain pattern and his chain link jewellery for his shoe collection that was dominated by patterned, laser-cut leather sandals

Installation of an architectural sculptural curves and contemporary jewellery design — **Dauphin:** This fine jewellery label may be less than a year old, but designer Charlotte de La Rochefoucauld's architectural approach, sculptural curves and contemporary way with 'blue' gold has put the former fine arts student on our one-to-watch list

Models sitting on a tufted green rug — **Dries Van Noten:** This season's bohemian rhapsody took place on what else but a rather smashing tufted green rug designed by Buenos Aires-based artist Alexandra Kehayoglou

Construction zone installation for a presentation — **Sonia by Sonia Rykiel:** The house erected a construction zone for its diffusion line's presentation on Place des Vosges

Model wearing a mariner striped dress and bow-tied, tread-soled slides — **Cédric Charlier:** Mariner stripes and colour blocking encapsulated Charlier's spring salutation, which was finished with brilliant bow-tied, tread-soled slides

Models walking, wearing coats and heels — **Christophe Lemaire:** The impressive National Library of France, designed by Dominique Perrault Architecture, offered a fitting backdrop to Christophe Lemaire's modern utility tailoring that was cut with an asymmetrical edge

Installation of an inflatable set and riviera stripes — **Jacquemus:** Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus took us back to the beach with his inflatable set and more Riviera stripes

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Jack Moss

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Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

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