Catherine Deneuve memorably strutted around in a pair of Rogier Vivier's iconic pilgrim shoes in Luis Buñuel’s 1967 film Belle du Jour. The square-heeled flat pump - boldly defined with a large oversized rectangular chrome buckle – has morphed slightly since then, but its overarching style, reused and reinvented season after season by Roger Vivier's creative director Bruno Frisoni, is very much alive and kicking on the feet of many a modern ‘belle’ today. No mean feat in the fast-moving landscape of fashion, and testament to the staying power of an iconic style, created almost five decades ago as the footwear to accompany Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dresses. So it's about time the House of Roger Vivier marked its founding French shoemaker’s imprint in fashion, and what better way to do so than with ‘Roger Vivier’, a comprehensive new tome published by Rizzoli New York.
Monsieur Vivier, of course, needs little introduction. Born in 1907, Vivier was known and loved for the daring and lavish shoes he designed over a seven-decade career. He notably rose to prominence in the 1950s as Dior's star shoemaker, enhancing the brand’s New Look silhouette with the era-defining stiletto that he brought into the style arena in 1954, kick-starting a trend in mainstream women's fashion in the process. The designer closed his business before he passed away in 1998, but a brand revival was instigated in the form of TOD's owner Diego Della Valle, whose acquisition of the brand in 2003 has steadily taken Roger Vivier from Parisian heritage shoemaker to an internationally-reaching luxury shoes and accessories label.
A visually-led narrative takes the reader on a journey through a whole host of impactful creations that the house of Roger Vivier has produced since its founder set up shop on Paris’ rue Royale aged 30 years – there’s the famous Comma heel pump, the graphic Prismick bag and the 'Rose n' Roll' sandal from the S/S 2008 collection that graced the pages of Wallpaper* in July 2008. All this, packaged up in a graphically-charged format, is peppered with essays by Olivier Saillard, Virginie Mouzat, Loïc Prigent, Colombe Pringle and Elisabeth Sammelhack.
Also featuring conversations between Roger Vivier brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange and Catherine Deneuve, the brand's creative director Bruno Frisoni and Cate Blanchett, the newly-released book is a spectacular insight into M. Vivier's fanciful world of shoes and accessories.
The invitation to the book launch, which was held at London's Saatchi Gallery, featured a maquette of the book in Vivier's characteristic red
Ankle boot in red suede and transparent vinyl. Zip closure on the back, concealed by a band of red suede fixed with velcro, from 1996
Portrait of Roger Vivier taken in 1998 shortly before his death
Adapting an image by David Bailey, this composition features a sheath dress by Yves Saint Laurent with velour pumps by Roger Vivier, Vogue Paris, September 1966
Brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange and creative director Bruno Frisoni joined forces to relaunch the Roger Vivier brand, elevating it from its artisanal roots to a globally recognised fashion marque
Inside Frisoni's office at la Maison 29 Faubourg
Seasonal scrapbooks in Frisoni's office
'Belle de Nuit', 'Limelight' pumps and 'Rose n' Roll' sandal from the S/S 2008 collection appeared in this Wallpaper* spread in July 2008
The book features advertising, business cards and show invitations from the archives of Jean Claude Harel, who was a longtime sales manager for Roger Vivier
Modern day invitations to Roger Vivier's fashion week presentations. The elegant offerings, featuring intricate cutouts of motifs based on its accessories, reflect the 21st century spirit of the brand, as conjured by Frisoni
'Pyramides' clutch and 'Gommette' ballerinas, S/S 2010 collection
Advertisements celebrating Roger Vivier's collaboration with the house of Dior in the late 1950s and early 60s
Classic 'Belle Vivier' shoe in black patent leather with a chrome silver buckle
Sketch of evening shoes embellished with golden pheasant feathers. Coloured pencil on paper, 1954
From left: 'Apollo and Dionysius (after Mondrian)', by Rupert Shrive, 2010; Bruno Frisoni at his desk
Aqua pumps with chrome 'comma' heel, S/S 2005 collection
A photo describing the disposition of the individual leather plates that make up a 'Prismick' bag, S/S 2012 collection
Frisoni's mood board for the Rendez-Vous Limited Edition collection
A selection of 'Miss Viv' Choc' patent leather pumps with 'choc' heel, F/W 2012-2013 collection
'Crystal Palace' shoe and 'Nonsense' clutch, F/W 2012-2013 collection
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