Catherine Deneuve memorably strutted around in a pair of Rogier Vivier’s iconic pilgrim shoes in Luis Buñuel’s 1967 film Belle du Jour. The square-heeled flat pump - boldly defined with a large oversized rectangular chrome buckle – has morphed slightly since then, but its overarching style, reused and reinvented season after season by Roger Vivier’s creative director Bruno Frisoni, is very much alive and kicking on the feet of many a modern ‘belle’ today. No mean feat in the fast-moving landscape of fashion, and testament to the staying power of an iconic style, created almost five decades ago as the footwear to accompany Yves Saint Laurent’s Mondrian dresses. So it’s about time the House of Roger Vivier marked its founding French shoemaker’s imprint in fashion, and what better way to do so than with ‘Roger Vivier’, a comprehensive new tome published by Rizzoli New York.
Monsieur Vivier, of course, needs little introduction. Born in 1907, Vivier was known and loved for the daring and lavish shoes he designed over a seven-decade career. He notably rose to prominence in the 1950s as Dior’s star shoemaker, enhancing the brand’s New Look silhouette with the era-defining stiletto that he brought into the style arena in 1954, kick-starting a trend in mainstream women’s fashion in the process. The designer closed his business before he passed away in 1998, but a brand revival was instigated in the form of TOD’s owner Diego Della Valle, whose acquisition of the brand in 2003 has steadily taken Roger Vivier from Parisian heritage shoemaker to an internationally-reaching luxury shoes and accessories label.
A visually-led narrative takes the reader on a journey through a whole host of impactful creations that the house of Roger Vivier has produced since its founder set up shop on Paris’ rue Royale aged 30 years – there’s the famous Comma heel pump, the graphic Prismick bag and the ’Rose n’ Roll’ sandal from the S/S 2008 collection that graced the pages of Wallpaper* in July 2008. All this, packaged up in a graphically-charged format, is peppered with essays by Olivier Saillard, Virginie Mouzat, Loïc Prigent, Colombe Pringle and Elisabeth Sammelhack.
Also featuring conversations between Roger Vivier brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange and Catherine Deneuve, the brand’s creative director Bruno Frisoni and Cate Blanchett, the newly-released book is a spectacular insight into M. Vivier’s fanciful world of shoes and accessories.
