For S/S 2025, streamlined silhouettes with a graphic edge

At Maria Grazia Chiuri’s S/S 2025 runway show for Dior, the Italian designer referenced the ‘Amazone’, an archival Christian Dior dress from the designer’s 1951 Autumn-Winter Haute Couture collection. Inspired by a group of French female horseriders – ‘Amazone’ derives from the Gallic word for ‘side saddle’ – Chiuri used it as a jumping-off point for a sleek, sporty outing at the house, where lean silhouettes referenced the contemporary uniforms of women equestrians and archers (indeed, as a backdrop to the show, the archer-slash-artist Sagg Napoli fired shots on target).

It spoke to a graphic through-line which ran through the season’s collections, seeing streamlined, engineered silhouettes – oftentimes in black – speak to a renewed focus on design and construction. There were the bold blown-up hourglass dresses at Acne Studios, the effect reminiscent of dressing a paper doll; the twisting, body-conscious contours of Antonin Tron’s Atlein (the designer is an avid surfer); or the supersized lace-up fastenings of Demna’s S/S 2025 collection for Balenciaga.

Here, Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes and photographer Gabriele Rosati give these silhouettes a graphic treatment, as seen in the April 2025 Issue of Wallpaper* – on newsstands now.

S/S 2025’s streamlined silhouettes

Model: Migoa Guol at Elite London. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: David Curtis-Ring at Hen House. Hair: Tobia Bartolini using Oribe. Make-up: Sunao Takahaski at Saint Luke using Byredo. Digi tech: Alexander Brunacci. Photography assistants: Luca Chiapatti, Hayleigh Longman. Fashion assistant: Nathan Fox. Set design assistants: Henry Hawksworth, Candice Mac. Production assistant: Archie Thomson.

A version of this article appears in the April 2025 issue of Wallpaper* , available in print on newsstands from 6 March 2025, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today