Issey Miyake aficionados will know that a multitude of labels make up the cult Japanese brand – from the eponymous womenswear line to signature Pleats Please and Homme Plissé, or Bao Bao, with its distinct geometric accessories. As of this week, IM Men – a menswear line designed by MDS, the Miyake Design Studio – arrives for the first time outside Japan in a new pop-up at the Issey Miyake store on London’s Brook Street.
Built on many of the same principles as the other labels in the conglomerate – it is particularly similar to 132 5. Issey Miyake in its origami-like experiments with form – IM Men is designed to withstand the rigours of everyday life while retaining the lightness and ease synonymous with Issey Miyake’s eponymous founder. With a focus on the quotidian wardrobe, all the pieces can be easily packed away without creasing while playful elements – lines of vivid colour, intricate pleated seams – give the collection a feeling of levity.
Issey Miyake’s IM Men label lands in London
The limited-time store, part of Issey Miyake Brook Street
In the brand’s words, it is about ‘integrating new ideas and experimental processes to make clothing of ease and comfort that brings about a sense of joy and new discoveries in everyday living’.
So what to expect from the limited-time London store? Highlights include the ‘Flat Bi-Colour’ series, whereby tailored coats and trousers can be folded completely flat, while gussets for ease of movement are boldly coloured for ‘visual delight’ (each piece is also made from an innovative wrinkle-resistant technical fabric, meaning they can be easily transported).
Pieces from IM Men’s ‘Flat Bi-Colour’ series, which can fold completely flat
Meanwhile, the featherweight ‘Air Pleats’ pieces are some of the brand’s lightest yet, created from hollow thread and plant-derived polyester and with distinct pleated details. Finally, the ‘Motion’ series is defined by its ability to boldly transform: a pair of shorts rolls into a pair of trousers, a short jacket into an elongated coat.
As of now, the store will run from today (7 September 2023) for one month only, though it looks likely that this will just be the beginning of IM Men’s arrival in Europe – or indeed the world – with longer-term availability no doubt in the works.
IM Men is available from Issey Miyake at 10 Brook Street, London from September 7, 2023 for one month.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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