Since Margaret Howell began her eponymous label in 1970, the designer has always favoured the timeless over ephemeral trends. ‘Consistency in authenticity’ is the brand’s tagline, and its continuing success, over half a century on, is a testament to Howell’s eye for creating a wardrobe that is built to last.
She applies this same philosophy to her collaborations, which have seen her unite with other companies with a similar ethos: she has worked with heritage outerwear brand Barbour, Japanese sportswear label Mizuno, and even Anglepoise, creating a version of its Type 75 task lamp, one of the most enduring British design objects of our century.
Introducing the Dr Martens X MHL 1461 shoe
A new collaboration, through her MHL line – a functional, workwear-inspired offshoot utilising tougher fabrications – sees Howell reimagine another design classic, Dr Martens’ 1461 shoe. First introduced in 1961, one year after the advent of its signature heavy boot, the 1461 was originally conceived as a hard-wearing work shoe (subsequently, it has been adopted by both fashion and subculture).
‘A Dr Martens lace-up shoe is timeless,’ asserts Howell. ‘It is also durable, well-made and suitable for a person of any age – much like our MHL collection.’
As such, Howell’s version of the 1461 is one of minimal intervention; instead of fully reimagining the style, she has added a padded heel collar and tab, unwaxed cotton laces, and a double-stitched toe cap. These subtle details, says Howell, were drawn from other work shoes she discovered in the Dr Martens archive.
Another focus is the construction, which takes place at the brand’s Made in England factory in Northamptonshire, the spiritual home of shoe manufacturing in the United Kingdom. Each pair is made from chrome-free leather from Leeds tannery CF Stead, grained and oiled to give richness to the brown and black leather (the shoe is available in two colourways). Softer to the touch than the classic 1461, Howell’s version is designed to patina and age over time.
‘[This collaboration] started with a deep respect for the way that Margaret and [her] team approach design,’ says Michael Ford, head of brand concepts and partnerships, Dr Martens. ‘With a respect for the past, but retold for today – which is the approach we have taken into this project – starting with our Iconic 1461 and reinterpreting it with details pulled directly out of our archive.’
Dr Martens x MHL 1461 shoe will be available from 16 July 2026, at Margaret Howell’s website and stores, as well as selected retailers, including END (below).
