Artist’s Palate: Sarkis’ milk tripe soup
Turkey is a land of many delights, but for the conceptual artist Sarkis, who unveils a new installation, Respiro, at the Turkish pavilion during the Venice Biennale (May to November), it doesn’t get much better than sütlü iskembe çorbasi, roughly translated as milk tripe soup. Made using beef tripe and served with a vinegary garlic sauce, the soup is traditionally regarded as a hangover remedy. Sarkis admits that he only makes it once a year, to help recuperate from the New Year celebrations.
For the soup
400-500g beef tripe
1 litre water
1 egg yolk
For the topping
1 tsp paprika
2 cloves garlic, crushed
Using thoroughly cleaned and rinsed tripe, cover with salted water, bring to the boil and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until tender. Remove the cooked tripe, reserving the cooking water, and cut into bite-size chunks. Melt the butter in a pan, stir in the flour, then gradually add 500ml boiled water, stirring all the time, until smooth. Add the tripe chunks and cook over a low-medium heat for a further 15 to 20 minutes. Beat the egg yolk with the milk. Slowly pour into the mixture, stirring. Cook for another 3 to 4 minutes over a medium heat. For the topping, melt a little butter in a pan, add the paprika and sauté for a few minutes. Meanwhile, combine the crushed garlic vinegar and lemon juice to make a dressing. Pour the soup into bowls, drizzle with the paprika and a little of the dressing, and serve.
Photography: Zachary Zavislak. Food: Liza Jernow