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Scene setting: Kenzo gets our award for the top set of the season with its 20-foot tall painted backdrop that glided effortlessly across the enormous show space before splitting into six different blocks that rotated around the square runway like chess pieces.
Mood board: For winter Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim piled onto the protectionism bandwagon that's currently floating through fashion: looks were layered, volumes were drapey, hems were handkerchiefed, and the outwear took on the fortified look of hooded cloaks.
Finishing touches: Thick-soled, pull-on ankle boots provided the right footwear for trudging through the forest, while weekender bags came in shiny patent yellow as visors were covered in striped knitwear.
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JJ Martin